How can I open the speedometer?

[Guest bordsenius]

My speedo is very hard to read, as the sun has bleached the needle. When the bike was new the speedo needle was orange and easily readable, but now it is white, and as the background is white I have to look really hard to make out how fast I go.

 

I tried to open the speedo to get access to the needle. I'm planning to paint it red or orange. But I did not figure out how to open it?

 

Does anyone know how I can do this?

 

stig

[Guest ratchethack]

Stig, IMHO, most will find the effort level to do this prohibitive -- though it's certainly more'n possible. You didn't mention the tach, or the year of y'er Guzzi, but the situation is identical with both instruments. Also - the instruments changed from Veglia to (something else) and thus, mfgr-dependent considerations apply, and may vary. I found that http://paspeedo.com/graphics/sidemenu.gif will re-paint the pointer on instruments they've opened as a matter of course on any repair. See discussion in the recent "Tachometer Issue" thread, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8740 and ref. post #4 at this link:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...4453&hl=pry

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Stig, IMHO, most will find the effort level to do this prohibitive -- though it's certainly more'n possible. You didn't mention the tach, or the year of y'er Guzzi, but the situation is identical with both instruments. Also - the instruments changed from Veglia to (something else) and thus, mfgr-dependent considerations apply, and may vary. I found that http://paspeedo.com/graphics/sidemenu.gif will re-paint the pointer on instruments they've opened as a matter of course on any repair. See discussion in the recent "Tachometer Issue" thread, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8740 and ref. post #4 at this link:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...4453&hl=pry

 

 

If you have access to a lathe or know someone who does...

 

You can turn a CLOSE fitting female image of the beze;. Aluminum or brass are good choices but hardwood may be used.You will need the ring to cover the bezel snugly almost the full depth to the crimp. Make sure to allow clearance at the lens cover so as not to put pressure on the glass. Firmly clamp, not crushing but FIRMLY the instrument and SLOWLY unroll the crimp with whatever works best for you. Work around the bezel opening very gradually with each turn.

 

When re-hemming clamp every thing back into the form. Try to start with three areas 120 degrees apart to center and carefully, EVENLY re-crimp the flange. Study what you are trying to do and the plan will fall into place

 

I find a bit of plumber's or glazing putty thinned with linseed oil can be worked into the glass to metal joint of instruments with less than perfec seal. Wipe excess off while working it into rather than away from the joint. Paste or auto wax can also help seal the lens.

 

When properly re-hemmed leakage is not a problem . It may be your NEXT gauge before you really get the knack

 

PS , If you find it difficult to get a real good fit between the lathe turned form and the instrument bezel, you can WAX the instrument bezel area, cover it with Saran Wrap (very thin moldable plastic film). Put a small amount of plastic body filler (BOND-O) evenly into the turning and SQUEEZE the bezel into the ring. This will leave a perfect fitting impression when it hardens. Don't over do it!