!st sloppage sheet installed!

[pete roper]

1st proto type installed on a Centauro Sport this AM. No, I didn't try and wheely a customers bike to find out if the problem was cured but the plate went in like a dream, no problems, no leaks.

 

DID note that as Greg has previously stated the dipstick *Full* oil mark is about 1cm too low! So as others have suggested I think it is a good idea to check your oil with the bike upright and the stick NOT screwed in like the factory tell you too, (Smashes head on keyboard!!!AGAIN!)

 

Pete

 

PS. For going to all this trouble I demand another bodge point! I only have one!!!!

[Guest Nogbad]

 

PS. For going to all this trouble I demand another bodge point! I only have one!!!!

 

I don't see you displaying one. Anyway, I think you do deserve a second one for the plate. I have my reasons, but won't go into them here.

 

Therefore you are officially awarded a second bodge point. Let me know if you need a copy of the .gif file

[dlaing]

I don't see you displaying one. Anyway, I think you do deserve a second one for the plate. I have my reasons, but won't go into them here.

 

Therefore you are officially awarded a second bodge point. Let me know if you need a copy of the .gif file

So we are allowed to protest the bodge?!?

Seems like a perfectly good, permanent solution to me!?!

[Guest Nogbad]

The man requested the point himself. A man of Pete Roper's standing surely knows whether he should have a bodge point without me telling him. Therefore I acceded to his request.

[pete roper]

The sloppage sheet is a (Hopefully.) permanent solution for a problem that should never of been there in the first place. I dunno about other people but it certainly fits my definition of a bodge

 

For all I know it may not solve the problem but I'm willing to go out on a limb and state that I'm pretty damn sure that if it doesn't offer a complete cure it will prevent the problem occuring in 99.9999% of cases for 99.999% of riders. It should also have the added benefit of giving the breather system an easier time.

 

Anyway, I put the order in for 50 of 'em today, I hope they will be ready before I fly out next Wednesday.

 

Pete

[dlaing]

The sloppage sheet is a (Hopefully.) permanent solution for a problem that should never of been there in the first place. I dunno about other people but it certainly fits my definition of a bodge

 

For all I know it may not solve the problem but I'm willing to go out on a limb and state that I'm pretty damn sure that if it doesn't offer a complete cure it will prevent the problem occuring in 99.9999% of cases for 99.999% of riders. It should also have the added benefit of giving the breather system an easier time.

 

Anyway, I put the order in for 50 of 'em today, I hope they will be ready before I fly out next Wednesday.

 

Pete

So, I guess Guzzi should have made a dry sump or a deep hole of a sump with the oil intake in some oil plentiful abyss and therefore not needed a windage or sloppage reducer

[DeBenGuzzi]

So, I guess Guzzi should have made a dry sump or a deep hole of a sump with the oil intake in some oil plentiful abyss and therefore not needed a windage or sloppage reducer

*DING* *DING* *DING* we have a winner!!! johnny tell'em what he's won...

 

a $115 Sloppage tray by peter roper the sleek elegant design eliminates oil starvation and prolongs the life of the motor back to you dave

 

pay the man!

[big J]

Now I'm worried.What about the other 0.0001% of the time?

 

We are talking about Moto Guzzis.The normal rules do not apply.

[badmotogoozer]

Now I'm worried.What about the other 0.0001% of the time?

 

We are talking about Moto Guzzis.The normal rules do not apply.

 

Don't worry biggy. I'm positive that that .0001% will likely be me. I seem to have the bike that was the last one off the line, Friday afternoon, right before the place shut down for the big holiday.

 

Rj

[big J]

Your bike has a twin.

 

It's out the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plotting quietly to itself.

[Skeeve]

So, I guess Guzzi should have made a dry sump or a deep hole of a sump with the oil intake in some oil plentiful abyss and therefore not needed a windage or sloppage reducer

 

Which they did do with the redesigned cases for the Brevona/Griso/Norks, Norges....

[dlaing]

*DING* *DING* *DING* we have a winner!!! johnny tell'em what he's won...

 

a $115 Sloppage tray by peter roper the sleek elegant design eliminates oil starvation and prolongs the life of the motor back to you dave

 

pay the man!

Being a bit of a coward when it comes to spending money and wrenching unknown territories,

I am going to wait till after the POMs' installation reports.

Also I want to poke my head under the sump to get a gander of what's entailled.

From what Pete says, installation should be pretty straight forward.

[pete roper]

Dave, as with my earlier plates I'll include full fitting instructions but a breif precis is;

 

Drain oil. Remove the condensate return line/s from the back of the sump plate. Then undo the umpteen bolte that hold the sump plate on and remove it.

 

Then remove the oil filter/thermostat/PR valve plumbing via the removal of the four bolts shown in your pic. Pull that rearwards and its pipes, Sealed by O-rings, pop off the pipes on the spacer. Then remove the spacer by undoing the umpteen bolts that hold it to the block, (Note. Make sure you use a well made allen key and give the bolts a whack on the head with a hammer and punch to shock 'em loose first as they tend to be a bit difficult.). On V11's you *may* also have to disconnect the oil cooler pipes prior to removing the spacer, not sure.). If you're lucky the gasket will remain intact and on the bottom of the block. Check carefully though, especially the parts of the gasket that go around theoil delivery galleries, if you have doubts? Strip the gasket and replace after cleaning both the mating surfaces of the sump and the spacer and sump plate.

 

Remove the dipstick.

 

Using two of the 20mm bolts that hold the sump to the block place a gasket with a thin smear of loctite 415 (?) sealant around the edges, both top and bottom, onto the plate, put the short bolts into two of the holes that go nxt to the delivery galleries, front and back, and loosley bolte the plate, with the gasket, up to the block. If you are re-using the original gasket just put a smear around the edge of the plate before offering it up.

 

Replace dipstick and screw it home. Note that 'Full' mark on dipstick is about 1cm below level of plate. Re-mark stick at bottom level of plate. Remove stick until it's all back together and full of Yak Fat.

 

Then place another gasket, also with a thin line of 425 on both sides on top of the spacer and offer the spacer up to the block, Then bolt the spacer to the block with the umpteen screws. When you come to the last two you remove them from the holes you were using to hold the plate to the block and install them in the last two holes around the edge of the spacer. Tighten in a crosshatch pattern.

 

Take the oil filter etc. housing. Install new o-rings and grease them with rubber grease on the spigots of the pipes. Coming up at a slight angle so as not to damage the gasket push the housing into the female openings in the spacer and push home until the bolt holes line up. Install the four bolts, (I chose to use 5mm longer bolts because the plate and extra gasket add a bit of depth but this may be overkill ).

 

Install a new oil filter filled with the Yak Fat of your choice.

 

Offer up sump plate with or without new gasket depending on damage. I'd always suggest a new one here as you can grease it, (no need for a gasket sealenat and grease will make it easier to get off next time.) install all bolts.

 

Reconnect all hoses and the condensate return line.

 

Fill with fresh Yak Fat to the *new* level on the dipstick. Remove ignition relay and spark plugs. Spin motor on starter until oil light stays out when starter stops. Reinstall plugs and relay.

 

Double check everything is tight.

 

Go ride.

 

Note. Because there is now a plate between the sump and the crankcase there IS an injhibitor to quick return of oil to the sump. When COLD this means that drain back to the sump WILL be slower. HAving said that when the oil is cold the oil pressure relief valve, which is BELOW the level of the plate will be spewing a lot of oil straight back into the sump and I do NOT forsee any problem with there being inufficient oil returning to the sump and risking starvation. There is PLENTY of area, as well as holes, for the oil to return to the sump but in the interests of safety I do suggest that you warm the engine up properly for a few miles before really giving it the berries. Having said that I'd suggest that on ANY engine, it's just common sense. I DON'T see this as being a *problem* or an *issue* I simply mention it to show that I HAD taken it into consideration when designing the plate in case someone else thought of it and got worried.

 

Pete

[twhitaker]

 

Remove the dipstick.

 

Pete

 

Last time I checked he was operating the controls.

[guzzijack]

The sloppage sheet is a (Hopefully.) permanent solution for a problem that should never of been there in the first place. I dunno about other people but it certainly fits my definition of a bodge

 

For all I know it may not solve the problem but I'm willing to go out on a limb and state that I'm pretty damn sure that if it doesn't offer a complete cure it will prevent the problem occuring in 99.9999% of cases for 99.999% of riders. It should also have the added benefit of giving the breather system an easier time.

 

Anyway, I put the order in for 50 of 'em today, I hope they will be ready before I fly out next Wednesday.

 

Pete

 

 

Pete,

 

When are you coming up topside and what are your movements? Any chance of a plate or two coming with you? (One for the V11Sport motor in the Tonti and another for the Centauro).

 

Graham