Moly rear drive oil

[mark.gilmore]

 

My problem with buying ShockProof is not that I think there is anything better, but after shipping and tax, the total price for a quart is around $15.

Hu, You should try and buy it down under, it's like liquid Gold.

[docc]

 

This website seems to suggest adding it at 10 to 25% of the base

 

 

 

The Guzzi mix is 5.4% moly. The trouble comes when the moly is already mixed in an oil base such that a greater volume would be reuired to reach the specification.

 

Over breakfast with knowledgable riders yesterday one fellow volunteered as he had some ancient "Kalgard Engine GArd" that he used to put in the engine of his Honda Sabre. Bringing it home I mixed this dangerous looking cocktail: 210ml of leftover Moto Guzzi Final Drive Oil, 10 ml Engine Gard (moly), 140 ml leftover Mobile 1 75-90 and 10 ml Redline ShockproofLightwieght to make the 370 ml volume.

 

I also degreased and blew out the top vent. Now to see if it makes a geyser from the ingredients.

[Ryland3210]

That sounds too good to be true!

This website seems to suggest adding it at 10 to 25% of the base

http://www.powerpunch.biz/Power_Punch_Applications.html

So that would mean I would need about a quart every 4 years....since I plan on killing myself in 40 years, I'll only need 10 quarts.

Do I get a discount for a shortened lifetime supply?

What is the shipping on this lifetime supply?

My problem with buying ShockProof is not that I think there is anything better, but after shipping and tax, the total price for a quart is around $15.

I suppose it is good piece of mind to buy what may be the best.

If anyone has a less expensive source in the USA, I'd like to know about it. Thanks.

 

You might consider the Dow Corning Molykote M additive. Prices are given on their website. Dow recommends 5-10% by volume. My Cafe Sport manual's ratio is 5.5%. A quart of the M will result in about 18 quarts of gear oil when mixed. That will last me a very long time. I mix it up as needed. Keep in mind that M is mineral oil based. I use Valvoline gear oil, so I have not looked into Dow's products to see if they make a synthetic oil based product, nor can do I know whether or not M would be compatible with synthetic oils. The next time I change my trans oil, I'll use the M additive.

 

I was interested to find one of the websites recommending their "proprietary" moly additive for engine oil. In my mind, the only important factor (aside from obviously purity of the compound) is particle size. It should be small enough to pass through filters and tight clearanced mating moving parts, but large enough to do its job. In another of the websites a range of size in the under 1 micron range is offered.

 

One could call Dow's technical people to find out, if curious.

[Greg Field]

There is little need to add moly to engine oil if you use car oil, 'cause many of them are chock full of moly already—Mobil 1, for example—as means to increase fuel economy. If you use a motorcycle oil designed for use with wet clutches, it will not likely have moly in it.

 

David: We add 10-20cc of Power Punch to gear oil, depending on capacity of the rear drive. That's plenty, especially if using a GL-5 gear oil, most of which already have moly in them. I recently polished off a bottle that was 5 years or more old. For most people, it's a long-term supply, if not lifetime.

[badmotogoozer]

I just use RL for the color. Bel ray (green) in the forks, synth oil (brown-black) in the engine, and RLSP (mmmmm berries) in the trans. That way when something leaks, I know what it is. My bike is never working long enough to worry about what I'm putting in there... Leaks, however, are a constant occurrance.

 

Rj

[slug]

My problem with buying ShockProof is not that I think there is anything better, but after shipping and tax, the total price for a quart is around $15.

I suppose it is good piece of mind to buy what may be the best.

If anyone has a less expensive source in the USA, I'd like to know about it. Thanks.

Check your local auto parts store (not one of the big chain stores like Schmucks/Kragen/Checker/Napa.) I was surprised to find it here in Seattle at a local chain store called B & B Auto Parts. I think the stores where the employee's mullets are longer than usual are the places you'll find it.

[docc]

There is little need to add moly to engine oil if you use car oil, 'cause many of them are chock full of moly already—Mobil 1, for example—as means to increase fuel economy. If you use a motorcycle oil designed for use with wet clutches, it will not likely have moly in it.

 

 

 

 

A little off topic but:

I recently replaced the clutch discs in my Honda GB500. I managed to ruin it running Honda's 'best' oil. Later , through a series of articles in Motorcycle Consumer News, I found that this oil (I think it is "HP4") has extremely high moly content designed to improve the shifting of the 1500 Gold Wing. Switching back to Castrol helped but the damage was already done.

 

I was thinking of starting to run Mobil 1 in the GB but now it's sounding like a bad idea. I don't want to munt the clutch again . . .

[Greg Field]

I was thinking of starting to run Mobil 1 in the GB but now it's sounding like a bad idea. I don't want to munt the clutch again . . .

 

Doc: Stick to a motorcycle oil designed for wet clutches. I can recommend Motul 5100 as working very well in the Aprilias with wet clutches we sell. They have quite high specific output, so if their clutches do not slip, yours will not likey slip. By the gallon, it's about $25 and is dino oil plus polyolester (the best kind) synthetic.

[docc]

Rats. I was trying to narrow down how many different motoroils I shelve for five different vehicles. I thought I had it down to two. Maybe the Volvo T5 would be happy enough on dino 10-30. And, yeah , the Gb doesn't have the grunt to pull a greased string out of a cat's . . . but it's fun to ride in a prom date sort of way.

 

More on topic, I tried to contact Motul ( very nice videos on the website) but my French is not so good. I've asked about the moly product's availabilty and how their sythese meets the Guzzi spec. We'll see . . .

[andy york]

Oh hell Docc,

Change the plates , put some mobil 1 in it and ride

I'm putting 150 horse and 100 lb ft of torque to the ground on the wet clutch FJ

with mobil 1 and if its slipping i'll fix your GB for free

 

[Ryland3210]

FWIW, Yamaha recommends using a standard mineral oil without friction modifiers in my wet clutch Venture. According to Venture forum members, there have been clutch problems with friction modified "energy saving" oils.

 

Below is an excerpt from a rather long file I have on the subject. If anyone is interested, I can email the entire file.:

 

Expert Comments by Mike Guillory: Last update: 06:08 PM Sunday, September 26, 2004:

 

" Addendum

 

In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving (EC) work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases better. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally (Houston, Tx) that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is. Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications.

 

Heavy-Duty Oils

 

My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.

 

1. Castrol RX Super 15w40

2. Chevron Delo 400 15w40

3. Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40

4. Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40

5. Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40

6. Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)

7. SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40

8. Valvoline All Fleet 15w40

9. Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40

 

Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection

 

For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One. "