Filter Cover tool

[Guest ghp542]

I don't know if anybody else has discovered this, but Sears sells a Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Nub Remover Set, number 952061. These are used to removed bolts/nuts that have had their heads rounded off. But what maybe of interest to us the #13 and what is on the other end. The other end is set up for a 3/8" drive and a socket. The socket size is 27mm. What I did is used an extenstion coming in from the bolt extraction side and used the socket end to remove the manhole cover. I think the set sells for about $20.

 

They work great as bolt extractors too.

 

George in TN

[Skeeve]

According to my trusty Radio Shack conversion calculator, the conversion from 4 U.S. quarts is to 3.33 Imperial quarts.

 

Huh? 5 qts to the Imp gallon vs. 4 qts to the U.S. gallon, last I knew. What's up w/ your calculator, or am I just ?

 

Draining the oil while still warm is a good idea simply because it comes out faster.

 

That was the old days. We've got multi-vis oils now, that as long as you're working in normal conditions [shirt sleeve temps, not crawling around under car or bike w/ a parka on 'cause it's too frickin' cold![1]] pour pretty much same same whether at the "ouch!" hot stage or "aw nuts, wheres the shop rag" temp. I know, I've checked: cold or hot, the oil pretty much comes out like warm maple syrup [only lots blacker & slicker...] The fresh oil pours in more slowly, 'cause the "thickeners" haven't all been used up yet, so it behaves more like the 20wt that's the middle of the spectrum than the 10wt that the old oil acts like. So don't burn your fingers or waste your time & gas running the engine to warm the oil before draining. Unless it's 0c in your garage: then you'll want to warm the engine up just to heat the garage a little!

 

Ride on!

 

[1] My uncle's dictum is that "any place that's too cold for palm trees is unfit for human habitation" which is what he uses to justify his reluctance to go back to Texas and visit the family homestead...

[dlaing]

Huh? 5 qts to the Imp gallon vs. 4 qts to the U.S. gallon, last I knew. What's up w/ your calculator, or am I just ?

5 US quarts is about 1.041 Imperial gallon and one imperial gallon is four imperial quarts.

1 Imperial quart is about 1.201 US quarts and 1 imperial gallon is about 1.201 US gallon

3.33 X 1.201 = ~4

[Guest Phil_P]

Draining oil when the engine has been running is more likely to take out suspended particulates rather than a cold engine when they are more likely to have settled out. It may only be a small factor, but every little helps.

[richard100t]

I think the best way to change the oil is to let the bike cool overnight, then remove the sump.

Once the sump is removed then you can wipe it clean & dry with a cloth. Also you can remove the oil cooler lines to make sure theres no nasty old oil in there. Fill a new oil filter with oil before screwing it on, then tighten it down with a good filter wrench so theres no tear filled "my filter spun off & now my engine is scrap" thread. Reattach everything, add the 3.75 or so quarts of good synthetic oil & you're good for 5 or 6 thousand miles.

My way takes longer, but hey its worth it.

[Ryland3210]

I think the best way to change the oil is to let the bike cool overnight, then remove the sump.

Once the sump is removed then you can wipe it clean & dry with a cloth. Also you can remove the oil cooler lines to make sure theres no nasty old oil in there. Fill a new oil filter with oil before screwing it on, then tighten it down with a good filter wrench so theres no tear filled "my filter spun off & now my engine is scrap" thread. Reattach everything, add the 3.75 or so quarts of good synthetic oil & you're good for 5 or 6 thousand miles.

My way takes longer, but hey its worth it.

 

One more item is to clean the particles off the magnetic drain plug, and if your bike doesn't have one, get one, sez me.

 

If you take the oil out of the cooler, you need to add oil to replace that, too. Be careful about contamination. According to Pete, that part of the circuit comes after the filter.

[richard100t]

One more item is to clean the particles off the magnetic drain plug, and if your bike doesn't have one, get one, sez me.

 

If you take the oil out of the cooler, you need to add oil to replace that, too. Be careful about contamination. According to Pete, that part of the circuit comes after the filter.

Good point! I forgot about the drain plug shavings.

I havent had anything on my plug or in the screen in at least the last two changes. I really dont remember back any further than that but I do remember the first few changes had the metal gunk on the plug. Come to think of it the screen hasnt had anything in it since the first oil change at around 500 miles.

That may be a good advertisement for synthetic motor oil ymmv of course.

[Ryland3210]

Good point! I forgot about the drain plug shavings.

I havent had anything on my plug or in the screen in at least the last two changes. I really dont remember back any further than that but I do remember the first few changes had the metal gunk on the plug. Come to think of it the screen hasnt had anything in it since the first oil change at around 500 miles.

That may be a good advertisement for synthetic motor oil ymmv of course.

 

Not necessarily. I have had the same experience with metal particle collection reduction in every vehicle I have broken in on conventional oil which had magnetic drain plugs. Metal particle generation occurs primarily during break in, and decreases thereafter, regardless of oil type. Of course, as the engine ages, if something goes wrong, particle accumulation may increase again. That's a sign of accelerated wear, or damage.

 

I am not debating the long term benefit of synthetic's here. That has been covered ad nauseum in previous threads.

[Ryland3210]

Since this initial measurement, I have been refilling with 4 quarts with filter change. A Roper plate was just installed, and I thought it worthwhile to post a picture with dipstick screwed in. Looks like there is plenty of room for four quarts and more.

 

 

OK, here is a final report on refilling levels with Roper plate installed:

 

Test conditions:

Bike had not been started for one week.

Sump drained, filter removed, oil removed from filter access cover.

Bike left to drain overnight.

Installed new filter, and added 4 US quarts oil.

Restarted engine long enough to fill filter and build up oil pressure.

Bike supported to hold sump level using a good carpenter's spirit level.

All dipstick measurements taken screwed in using standard OEM dipstick, tip was 5.475" from its flange.

Measured oil level on dipstick: 0.88" beneath the Roper plate, 1.75 from the end of the dipstick.

18 additional oz. of oil were required to fill to 0.88 inches higher along the dipstick.

This works out to a relationship of approximately 0.049 inches per ounce.

Total oil to fill to Roper plate is therefore 4.32 liters, or 4 quarts-18 oz. US, or 3 quarts-25.6 oz. Imperial.

 

Cautions: This is the level to just kiss the bottom of the plate on my bike. In operation, it will drop somewhat as oil circulates in the engine, which is normal. Refilling by this amount under different draining conditions may result in overfilling, so it is wise to check level with the dipstick after running the engine long enough to fill the filter and build pressure, and adjust if necessary before riding. You can use the 0.049 inches per ounce (about 20 ounces per inch) to estimate how much oil to add if low.

 

With the Roper plate installed and level sump, it takes a few minutes for the fresh oil to drain down through its holes, so wait until the oil is drained into the sump before measuring. If unsure, take at least two measurements. If different, wait a while and check again to get an accurate reading.