Winter Service Scope

[Lamedog]

Setting scope for the winter's work as my '02 LeMans hits ~20k miles. Am on top of oil and simple stuff (valves, etc.), deferring the full 18k service until this winter - now here we are. Plans are; new filters (air/oil/fuel), and plugs. Replace all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, trans & bevel drive), adjsut valves and torque heads. I grease drive shaft with tire replacement and these were just done. Will upgrade shock springs per Wilbers recommendations for spring, fluid wt and air gap. Increasing rear preload has made this OK for my current riding style. Will enter transmission and replace pawl spring since I don't know its history. Figure the experience may come in handy sometime. Impress your friends by popping in the original on the roadside!

 

Time to address low-speed shudder from front brake. Presume the rotor(s) warped, since cleaning by air-blowing the floating connections helped only a little. Bike has had this since I bought it at 12k miles. Don't know how problem developed but see no sign of damage to either rotor. Was this a common problem with '02's? Is ti likely to return if I replace with OEM Brembo 4.5 mm? Given the apparent effort to remove the rotors from the wheel, I was planning an eyeball clearance test with bright light at caliper and spin the front wheel (thanks to the center-stand) . Unless problem is clearly on one-side, I'm tempted to order parts in advance and save the time/energy/uncertainty of measuring and exploring turning as needed. Does experience show most folks end up replacing both rotors anyway? How often is turning an option for bikes with 20k miles? The Brembo page on GuzziTech implies the rotor can be changed to 5mm without changing calipers. There are a couple options for the thicker disk, slightly more expensive and lots (twice) more. Any experience justifying the upgrade if I'm after a reliable smooth performing "one-time fix", not a knee dragging late entry kinda guy?

 

Thoughts? What am I missing?

[Guest Gary Cheek]

If you would like , I can lend you a dial indicator and micrometer to check run out and paralellism of your rotors. I can also send you the proper tools to do battle with the button head excuses for bolts used by Guzzi on the rotors. When you get to that point let us know and we can give you tips on the removal of those "bolts". (Patience required!)

 

All I ask is a timely return.

 

Or you can skip the testing and just replace the warped rotor(s). Depending upon the severity tou may be able to see the run out. Sometimes it is a thickness issue and not as apparent. Yes the rotors do warp. Not always but not uncommon.

[Lamedog]

If you would like , I can lend you a dial indicator and micrometer to check run out and paralellism of your rotors. I can also send you the proper tools to do battle with the button head excuses for bolts used by Guzzi on the rotors. When you get to that point let us know and we can give you tips on the removal of those "bolts". (Patience required!)

 

All I ask is a timely return.

 

Or you can skip the testing and just replace the warped rotor(s). Depending upon the severity tou may be able to see the run out. Sometimes it is a thickness issue and not as apparent. Yes the rotors do warp. Not always but not uncommon.

 

Gary: Thanks - What a great offer! BTW: I'm familiar with your many excellent posts, so I will be getting to you on bolt removal (Hope it involves a torch...). Your attitude exemplifies what I love about the forum, and I'm sending a $ contribution to Jaap today. In fact, I engineer at a Bay Area CA refinery, with a machine shop full of motorheads who have also offerred help. Their input was that typically these things can't be turned. You sound to be speaking from experience. Did you replace or turn?

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Gary: Thanks - What a great offer! BTW: I'm familiar with your many excellent posts, so I will be getting to you on bolt removal (Hope it involves a torch...). Your attitude exemplifies what I love about the forum, and I'm sending a $ contribution to Jaap today. In fact, I engineer at a Bay Area CA refinery, with a machine shop full of motorheads who have also offerred help. Their input was that typically these things can't be turned. You sound to be speaking from experience. Did you replace or turn?

 

No sweat let me know if and when you need the stuff.

I still have the originals on my bikes. My buddy , Mike has the same rotors on his Ducati 900SS. They went silly @35K Miles. We replaced them with a pair of used rotors from a 1999 Bassa I bought on Ebay. Beware if you try turning. I doubt there is enough meat to clean them up and the thinner rotors will go out all the sooner. There is also the issue of minimum thickness as the rotor gets thinner the caliper pistons may exten farther out as they wear. The manufacturer can advise on the ABSOLUTE minimum thicknes.

Yes the bolts usually require heat. Mainly to release the Loctite. Sometimes a little or a lot of tapping on the bolt head as well. A GOOD fitting socket key (Allen Wrech) and PATIENCE. I replace the buggered (all of them) head screws low height socket screws. The low heifht screws are like regular socket screws but the heads are shorter. They hold up to wrenching better and HOLD better than buggered head (button head) socket screws.

 

If you have a hard time finding them we have a local source and I can get them for you.