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How to go from hero to zero in 3 dyno runs


Guest Huey130

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Guest Gary Cheek

Not quite Greg. You can still lay claim to that attitude. :notworthy: In the future if you must speak, please speak for yourself.

 

Meanwhile if you care to carry on, PMs may be more appropriate than HiJacking threads. :wacko:

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Guest Gary Cheek

Greg, another correction I didn't say we hijacked. I was only hinting we may be getting close to it.

It is a figure of speech sometimes used in internet vernacular to describe taking a post far from it's original intent. Usually for personal reasons.

I don't really mind reading your stuff. After all YOU were the one who said it was tiring. It made me think someone was forcing you.

Tech Note:

BTW Greg it is best to have a minimum of 1 1/2 threads of a male thread at the outside of nut.Even prevailing torque nuts. Perhaps a hose clamp would help in a few other areas on your bike. (Assuming that it is your bike) Manufacturers sometimes fall short at this. Often a subsequent mechanic will correct the situation. Some others still will make it worse and use bolts that actually fail to fully penetrate. With Nylok* Or Stover* Lock type fasteners the prevailing torque feature is defeated by a failure to penetrate the locking portion of the fastener.

Some racing organizations will insist on the 1 1/2 thread rule.

 

Hint : See photos on the sloppage plate install at WidGuzzi..............

:doh:

Perhaps a thread on how to propely use threaded fasteners?

Or "Why Things Fall Off" :rolleyes:

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Perhaps if you'd read the post, you'd know that I said the nut was loosened, so that I could pull the bracket out so that I could cut a half a milimeter out of the bottom of the hole for the bolt below it. That is why no threads extend through it. It's loosened. I turned it off the threads that extended through the nut. Get it?

 

That crashbar and its hardware were engineered by Stucchi, I think. If you have issue with it, address them. They, of course, lack your wisdom and experience.

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Hey Huey, looks like this thread stirred up a hornets nest :)

 

I'd recomend contacting Todd Eagan at Guzzitech.com. He reads this board but as a socal guy his own board that he checks everyday is at socal-guzzi.com. Todd's pretty much the authority on the Fuel Injected Guzzi Motor coupled with a Power Commander or otherwise.

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Here is another possible solution to the filter unscrewing itself:

Instead of lubing the filter gasket with super slick sythetic oil, how about using rubbing alcohol?

It will lube it long enough to get the filter on, and then maybe the seal will stay lube free enough to resist loosening. :huh2:

Or maybe instead of alcohol, a thinner lube like WD40 or ATF with less film strength :huh2:

Whatdyathink?

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....

Or maybe instead of alcohol, a thinner lube like WD40 or ATF with less film strength :huh2:

Whatdyathink?

 

You don't know what those fluids do to the rubber. WD40 eg makes rubber grow. Probably the sealing isn't made of rubber, anyway.

The manual says "slightly oil the sealing and then mount it 'hand-tight' ". I never lost one with this procedure, neither car, lorry nor bike version. They don't come loose, they get virtualy welded to their seats. Don't know why.

 

_______________________________________________________

 

 

Huey,

 

did you check the oil level before you started the procedure or did you relay on what your customer said or thought about it?

 

I looked at the posted chart. The ARF looks so smooth and as some would say perfect that there was probably done a lot of dynoing before to reach this level of smootheness. Could it be that the bike went over the edge during this obviously done prework and your shop now just shall act the not so funny part of being the responsible for that?

 

Hubert

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Guest Gary Cheek

Perhaps if you'd read the post, you'd know that I said the nut was loosened, so that I could pull the bracket out so that I could cut a half a milimeter out of the bottom of the hole for the bolt below it. That is why no threads extend through it. It's loosened. I turned it off the threads that extended through the nut. Get it?

 

That crashbar and its hardware were engineered by Stucchi, I think. If you have issue with it, address them. They, of course, lack your wisdom and experience.

 

 

Greg,

I'm not sure about the wisdom aspect, or even how much experience matters

Another correction. I did read the post. The other side (RH) is also short. It appears that even the side you note loosening has the same situation even when tight. I don't need to take issue with the manufacturer . After market companies have been known to kludge things together The person who installed it would have the responsibility to ensure proper installation.It seems however they are immutably reluctant to assume responsibility. Maybe they didn't think anything was wrong. It happens Greg.

 

 

BTW, Greg, If you read my post would would note that I mentioned manufacturers sometimes fall short. Lets also acknowledge some installers at times as well.

 

Why things fall off............. :luigi:

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This filter clamp or not controversy is the worst storm in a teacup I have ever seen.... No I take that back, storm in an egg-cup.... No wrong again, it's a storm in a thimble.

 

Why bother? Statistically you are probably more likely to die falling down the stairs on your way to breakfast than you are to suffer your oil filter coming undone.

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Guest Gary Cheek

This filter clamp or not controversy is the worst storm in a teacup I have ever seen.... No I take that back, storm in an egg-cup.... No wrong again, it's a storm in a thimble.

 

Why bother? Statistically you are probably more likely to die falling down the stairs on your way to breakfast than you are to suffer your oil filter coming undone.

 

But it is expanding to include other hitherto mis-understood phenomenon. :) As we can see the cause for many of these problems is often quite basic.

 

Even more likely to have an incident from a Nylok that unscrewed itself because of the owner's refusal to secure it with a hose clamp ;)

 

It is fun but you are right. This thread is not the place for it . Point taken. :blush:

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I never heard of a car filter unscrewing.

 

Happened to me. Filter supplied and fitted by the main dealer. It's one of the reasons I loathe and despise them. The follow up was fun, though. I was in full bellow mode in the showroom and they wheeled in the "technician" who had done the work - who turned out to be a 16/17 year old apprentice. I pointed out, at full volume, that, if I was paying £50/hour labour charges, I didn't want a trainee working on my vehicle.

 

Think I lost them a few sales that day.

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Happened to me. Filter supplied and fitted by the main dealer. It's one of the reasons I loathe and despise them. The follow up was fun, though. I was in full bellow mode in the showroom and they wheeled in the "technician" who had done the work - who turned out to be a 16/17 year old apprentice. I pointed out, at full volume, that, if I was paying £50/hour labour charges, I didn't want a trainee working on my vehicle.

 

Think I lost them a few sales that day.

 

On the positive side, did you learn anything regarding what method the technician used or did wrong?

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Happened to me. Filter supplied and fitted by the main dealer. It's one of the reasons I loathe and despise them. The follow up was fun, though. I was in full bellow mode in the showroom and they wheeled in the "technician" who had done the work - who turned out to be a 16/17 year old apprentice. I pointed out, at full volume, that, if I was paying £50/hour labour charges, I didn't want a trainee working on my vehicle.

 

Think I lost them a few sales that day.

 

Be careful on your way down for breakfast.....

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Sorry if this post is a bit 'out of place', as I've been off on a bike tour of the desert states of the U.S.

I've always been of the frame of mind that over-reving a pushrod engine would at first damage the valves, through valve float, and that damage to the main bearings and big ends would happen at a much loftier rpm, unattainable because of valve damage. It's long been known that even early internal combustion engines had rev liminters, and that was valve float!

Chris Beauchemin and I talked about his big end bearing issue on his '02-03. This machine had probably the most carefull owner in existence, no lugging, and no over-revving. I think this is a supply quality issue, rather than a mechanical design issue. 40 yrs of using 1 basic engine layout gives even a tiny concern like M.G. a chance to find out and recify those weak design issues all engines have in their early days. I think the engine in question on this dyno test falls into the same catagory as Chris's old bike.

Ciao, Steve G.

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Chris Beauchemin's is one of the V11s on which we (MI) replaced torched rod bearings this summer. He never really said whether his oil light flickered on under hard acceleration. It looked like oil starvation to all of us who examined the bearings. This is the bike that I stated was from unknown cause in the earlier post, because we could never really pinpoint what happened. I concur that he was a top-1-percent meticulous owner, who paid attention to detail. I don't think he would let his oil level get low and not notice. If it can happen to him, it can happen to anyone.

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