Where is the transmission drain plug?

[Guest jimjib]

I know this sounds stupid...but from the pic I cant tell for sure. In the manual it shows the plug on the right side but there is none. I see one on the on the left...but I want to know for sure before i remove it

[John O'Sullivan]

Jim,

The tranny drainplug is eaiest got at from the left side of the bike(as you sit on it).

 

I got a great tip from one of the message boards of using a piece of aluminium foil to channel the oil away from the exhaust box, therefore you aviod having to drop the whole exhaust system.

[Guest jimjib]

Since there is no other plug that I can find...i guess this is it. I just dont want any bb's to fall out when I remove it, hehe. The damn manual points to something on the right side of the transmission...how silly is that.

 

[Jamie]

I would like to know exactly what you folks recommend for both the rear differential AND the transmission oil. The manual says 1 quart 80/90w Hypoid for Transmission and 90w AND for the rear 1/2 quart 90w hypoid I have read here that some of you use the 'Redline' shockproof 90w for the rear, what about for the transmission? And what type of grease for the driveshaft nipples? Many thanks.

[The Monkey]

I would like to know exactly what you folks recommend for both the rear differential AND the transmission oil. The manual says 1 quart 80/90w Hypoid for Transmission and 90w AND for the rear 1/2 quart 90w hypoid I have read here that some of you use the 'Redline' shockproof 90w for the rear, what about for the transmission? And what type of grease for the driveshaft nipples? Many thanks.

 

 

I still use the Moto Guzzi differential oil (shaken up) as it contains the Moly additive called for. If thats not available you can use regular 85-90 weight and add your own moly (auto dealers sell convenient sizes of moly additive for their truck differentials). The transmission is happy with the recommended weight gear oil, I've been using a 75-90 full synthetic for the last couple seasons, seems fine, but probably is a waste of cash. The grease for the cardan shaft? just be sure there are no additives containing MOS/2 they give a drop point in the owners manual and recommend a "grade 2 lithium base" I have'nt run into grade 2 but lithium based grease is easy enough to find. Personally I use a marine grease for outdrives that has no MOS/2 (haven't worried about the lithium aspect) for the last 40k all splines are happy and the centrifugal fling is acceptable. Make sure the needle bearing in the end of the bevel box gets a good shot of grease each season (generic wheel bearing grease does the job) otherwise water gets into it and destruction results. Its easy to get to/ or replace (drop the wheel) I leave enough to have a bead visible once assembled, even if it means running extra around the finished assembly with my finger to ensure water stays out.

Hope that helps.

[docc]

My literature says, "850 mL" for the gearbox (I like Redline Lightweight , but so many like the "heavy" as well). That's a bit less than a "quart" (like 100 mL).

 

The rear "bevel drive" takes 370 mL in all. You could put it all up with Redline heavy (with its proprietary pink moly VooDoo) or 350 mL gear oil and 20 mL Moly.

 

Both boxes are easy to both over fill and under fill.

[Dan M]

I use redline heavy in both. Shifting is improved over OE fluid.

Any auto/industrial multi-purpose grease is fine for the joints.

[Jamie]

I use redline heavy in both. Shifting is improved over OE fluid.

Any auto/industrial multi-purpose grease is fine for the joints.

 

The two zerk fittings (greasers) on either end of the drive shaft are damn near impossible to get grease into, even with a grease needle... both fittings even seem to be pointing away from a direct mating with a grease gun... Any suggestions out there?

[docc]

The two zerk fittings (greasers) on either end of the drive shaft are damn near impossible to get grease into, even with a grease needle... both fittings even seem to be pointing away from a direct mating with a grease gun... Any suggestions out there?

 

Try a search in Nuts and Bolts for "Front U-joint." There a couple extensive threads on solutions for the access to the front U-joint.

 

It's a little bugger no matter what.

[savagehenry]

The two zerk fittings (greasers) on either end of the drive shaft are damn near impossible to get grease into, even with a grease needle... both fittings even seem to be pointing away from a direct mating with a grease gun... Any suggestions out there?

Check the "How to" part of this forum, and you will find two threads on this in the first two pages, plus I know there are others as well. I remove the rear wheel and use a needle fitting on the grease gun to do a "quickie". The best way long term is to remove the shaft and push new grease in until all the old is gone. If you have old grease in there, it will heat up and suck some dirt back in over time, and that shaft is about $700.00, so treat her well...

[docc]

Searching didn't do me much good, so I took SH's advice and found this thread in How To: greasing the front uj

 

I'm not sure why the search couldn't find it otherwise. Apparently there is not a topic on this in FAQ.

[The Monkey]

Go easy on the zerk, damn fragile things those. Straight on, straight off with the gun

(bevel drive it is, differential it is not)