Need advice on wheel bearing replacement

[rower307]

My left rear wheel bearing(brake side) on my 2000 V11 Sport needs replacement..I've studied the factory manual and Guzziology, but still not clear. Do I need to remove the C-clip from the bearing before I drive it out, or can I drive the bearing out with the C-clip still on? I don't have a tool big enough to get it off while it's in place. I don't see a groove on the outside of the bearing. What does the C-clip fit into? I think I understand how to get the rest of the wheel apart, although I tried to pry off the cush drive hub and it wouldn't move. Seems I need to use more force. Any advice is appreciated. Don't want to booger up my wheel. Thanks.

[nose2wind]

Do a search on the rear wheel spacer. There is all kinds of info on changing the bearing etc...

[antonio carroccio]

for more force, ask one of this beauty...

[rower307]

No joy yet..I've read every forum response I could find. I think the previous owner might have made a new inner spacer. It has no slots and is almost exactly the same I.D. as the bearing, so I can't get a firm shot at the bearing to drive it out. Tried brass drift, steel punch and screwdrivers. Heated up the wheel with a hair dryer, but no luck. Any ideas?

[belfastguzzi]

First of all, are you just aiming to change the one bearing?

It would be better if you replace both sides at this time. And if you do that, you might find that it's easier to get the other bearing out first. Though I don't think so. I think that the left side is the easiest one to access. Someone can confirm...

 

There's no reason to suspect that you don't have the factory spacer, yet. Don't know what you mean by slots. There aren't slots in it. There are rings pressed on to it, to keep it in the middle but you won't see these 'til you get a bearing out. It is / has to be pretty much the same diameter, so there isn't much access space. I've used various things as drifts, including a screwdriver with cut-down blade that's bent /angled-out at the end, so that it can get a touch on the edge of the inner bearing ring. Work it bit by bit. Other devices are described in previous threads.

[antonio carroccio]

First of all, are you just aiming to change the one bearing?

It would be better if you replace both sides at this time. And if you do that, you might find that it's easier to get the other bearing out first. Though I don't think so. I think that the left side is the easiest one to access. Someone can confirm...

 

There's no reason to suspect that you don't have the factory spacer, yet. Don't know what you mean by slots. There aren't slots in it. There are rings pressed on to it, to keep it in the middle but you won't see these 'til you get a bearing out. It is / has to be pretty much the same diameter, so there isn't much access space. I've used various things as drifts, including a screwdriver with cut-down blade that's bent /angled-out at the end, so that it can get a touch on the edge of the inner bearing ring. Work it bit by bit. Other devices are described in previous threads.

I confirm, and I will add, change both of them. Hit them with a hammer, no merci. Find out how much can the inner space give you space to put something hard (like a screwdrivers) and hit on the inner ring of the bearing (from inside out). Don't hit it always at the same place but try to rotate it.

Anyway you have to HIT!!!

[Alex-Corsa]

WD 40, or other lubricands of the kind (anti-rust) can help untightening anything.

[belfastguzzi]

Any success yet?

[Tim]

I've found a fairly successful method of bearing removal that works well, even with blind bearings. You need to use a thing called a rawbolt - a type of fixing that is used for bolting things to walls or concrete floors etc. You will find them stocked at building supply places although they may be called something else where you live.

 

You need the type with a stud and nut rather than the bolt type and try and get one that is as close to the inner diameter of your inner race as possible. Simply stick it in the hole (oo er missus!) and tighten up as much as you dare and then (after warming the hub) drift the bearing out with a suitably large lump hammer.

 

it might take two or three goes before it works - often you don't tighten it enough at first - but persevere, it does work!

 

When you replace the bearings it's a good idea to put the new bearings in the freezer as well as warming the hub as they slip in nice and easy then(oo oo er missus!)

 

Also always replace both bearings

 

Good luck

[antonio carroccio]

Tim, can you please post some pic of this tool?

[belfastguzzi]

I've found a fairly successful method of bearing removal that works well, even with blind bearings. You need to use a thing called a rawbolt

Genius bodge! Why didn't anyone think of this before. There was a device made up (by Mr Angry?) to do a similar type of operation – but a suitable sized rawlbolt – that must be worth trying.

 

Tim, can you please post some pic of this tool?

[Tim]

I prefer the term "dodge" to " bodge"!

[rower307]

No luck yet..I even put the wheel center on the stove burner, ruined 2 screwdrivers so far. However, the rawbolt idea looks promising. I'll look for one tomorrow. Also a friend suggested going in between the ball bearings with some kind of puller & pulling it out? Not able to have a whack at it today, will try again soon. Thanks for all your help!

[belfastguzzi]

rawbolt - I'll look for one tomorrow.

Look for a Rawlbolt

May be called a Rawbolt somewhere , or shield anchor

 

I think you need to hit harder. Make sure that the wheel hub is properly, well supported.

[rower307]

It's out!!! The rawbolt didn't work, probably because it was too small. Then my buddy suggested using a propane torch to heat the area around the bearing, but not the bearing itself. A couple whacks with a new steel punch, and it was on the floor. The spacer looks OK, and it measures about 113.8 mm. According to the posts I read, that's a little short but should work. I only have 1 Guzzi bearing that I paid a large amount of money for, but after reading I ordered 2 6204-LLB-C3 from BearingKinetics. I'll use them instead. Thanks for all your help. Any more thoughts? By the way..Check out the post called "Live to ride,Ride to die". It's a serious reality check. I'm already partially disabled after 2 wrecks, but when I get in the zone on a back road the thought of consequences disappears. This should keep me focused for a while.