PCIII Tuning Link optimization

[dlaing]

How do you get the most from a tuning link session

On guzzitech.com I have heard that an air fuel ratio of 13.0/13.2 works well.

I think the ultimate would be something like, 12.6/14.1, give or take a few decimal places for maximum power and driveability.

I used to think that the tuning link would determine your maximum HP on the fly.

From what I now understand, a couple runs may be necessary to determine what A/F ratios produce the most power.

I would like to do one run to determine a flat 14.0, one run to determine a flat 13.0, and perhaps a non tuning link run to determine maximum power and torque. I can then work within those numbers to make it driveable, clean, and efficient.

What do you think? Getting expensive??? Unecessary?

[callison]

Do what Pierre in San Diego did for his much modified Sport 1100i. Contact Todd and set up an appointment at the load cell dyno up in the Riverside area. It probably will only take one pass and it'll be dead on.

[al_roethlisberger]

Boy I wish I could get to a Dyno shop that was "Guzzi-centric". But for now I guess I'll head over to Hare Racing here in San Jose. Several of the folks on the ST Forum have recommended them.

 

I just got my PC back from Dyno, hopefully all checked-out and firmware updated. So now it's to Orchard Supply to get some hardware to mount the sucker somewhere out of the way and neatly.

 

...then make an appt

 

al

[dlaing]

Do what Pierre in San Diego did for his much modified Sport 1100i. Contact Todd and set up an appointment at the load cell dyno up in the Riverside area. It probably will only take one pass and it'll be dead on.

I believe there is no such thing as dead on. I guess I am knit picking.

"load cell dyno"? Do you mean Dyno Dudes? That is where Pierre is going.

It is interesting how tuners such as Doug Lofgren use a much different approach to creating a map than the tuning link automaton.

Both have their merits.

The tuning link may be better at getting the mid throttle mixture right, as it would be tedious to do it without the tuning link.

The old school tuner is apparently better at maximizing peak power for every RPM.

I am not sure which is better at making a more rideable curve.

I should talk to Todd about how to make it rideable after I get the map from the tuning link.

Because what you get in the dyno room does not match what you get on the road, some of the effort is lost.

By maximizing power in the dyno room, when you enter the real world, half the time you are too lean, but thats ok because you fuel efficiency is increasing, but the other half of the time you may be running too rich.

(that is assuming that perfection is an unreachable point, and that real world conditions will vary in equal directions of richness and leanness, which of course is not going to happen.)

When your throttle bodies go out of balance, one will run too rich and the other too lean.

By making the compromise in the dyno room and going with something like Todd's suggested 13.0/13.2 you are in a position to be ok when things are not ideal. Some days you may make more power than you did in the dyno room and other days your gas mileage will be better.

I would still like to do multiple runs so that I can make a race track map, a canyon cruising map, and a touring map.

I am going to try to make an appointment with Dyno Dudes next Friday!