Gearbox problems

[Richard]

Has anyone had their gearbox stick in gear? The V11's is stuck in first and an attempt to shift up results in a solid pedal. I've done a search and couldn't find any previous topics. I would like any input you guys have before I start pulling anything apart!! Also, does anyone have an exploded diagram of the gearbox, as I have never seen one of these in bits? (I've done an overhaul on the 1100's 'box, but that's an old type selector drum affair!!)

[coz1100]

Has anyone had their gearbox stick in gear? The V11's is stuck in first and an attempt to shift up results in a solid pedal. I've done a search and couldn't find any previous topics. I would like any input you guys have before I start pulling anything apart!! Also, does anyone have an exploded diagram of the gearbox, as I have never seen one of these in bits? (I've done an overhaul on the 1100's 'box, but that's an old type selector drum affair!!)

 

 

Sounds like the shift return spring. do a search on that and you should get something.

 

Here you go Richard,

 

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...t+return+spring

[belfastguzzi]

The FAQ forum has most of the relevant threads:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1633

[Richard]

Cheers guys.

[Richard]

Are there any markings on the selector gears to show when they should be in neutral? Also, is it a case of moving the selector forks about until you find neutral, or is there a more scientific method...?!

[Baldini]

Are there any markings on the selector gears to show when they should be in neutral? Also, is it a case of moving the selector forks about until you find neutral, or is there a more scientific method...?!

 

This is a photo of selector gears in neutral. Some are marked, some aren't. I put a dab of paint on. The gears are in this position when the detente roller acting on the back of the top gear is in the short spaced cutaway (halfway between 1st & 2nd).

 

Centre selector forks on shafts (so that spaces to each side are equidistant) to put in neutral position.

 

KB

[stogieBill]

A friendly word of advice Richard,

 

If you decide to replace the shift spring yourself (an easy job, even first time), DO NOT try to remove the acorn /lock nut on the side case. You only need to remove the hex/allen screws and disconnect the obvious wires.

 

I'm still paying the price of that error myself.

 

Good luck

[Garsdad]

The marks on mine line up when the selector is in gear, first, I think. So, put it together with the marks lined up, then turn the gears to the position indicated in the photo before putting the cover back on.

 

Yamabond so far has held the shockproof in.

[Baldini]

The marks on mine line up when the selector is in gear, first, I think. So, put it together with the marks lined up, then turn the gears to the position indicated in the photo before putting the cover back on.

 

Yamabond so far has held the shockproof in.

 

Are the marks on yours at a different part of the circumference to the paint blobs I put on: There were no marks on mine, as I recall I put them there cos that was neutral position?

 

It's a far while since I had the plate off so I'm going on memory - I thought that photo shows neutral position but I could be remembering wrong - either way the photo shows the gears correctly aligned to each other, & you can check they're in neutral position by looking to see that the detent roller sits in the neutral slot on the back of the wheel.

 

KB

[Richard]

I've just pulled all apart and the centre-punched marks line up for first, but the marks that baldini put on are in the right place for neutral. Thankfully it is only the spring gone and nothing else major. It did take me about 20 mins to prize the plate off of the super-glue based gasket sealant that was used in a prior removal, though!

[Baldini]

....it is only the spring gone and nothing else major. ...

 

Richard, you know to check the diameter of the pawl arm boss that the spring coil sits on? The reason the springs break is that on some bikes this boss is 16mm diameter & spring binds. It should measure 15mm.

 

KB

[Richard]

Richard, you know to check the diameter of the pawl arm boss that the spring coil sits on? The reason the springs break is that on some bikes this boss is 16mm diameter & spring binds. It should measure 15mm.

 

KB

Yep, cheers. That was one of the first things I did - 15mm. Only a few hours off being back on the road.....

[Baldini]

So the spring broke even tho boss is correct size. Where was the break?

 

Is there a pin in your plate (at middle on left in photo) that limits pawl arm movement?

 

On oversize boss I had 3 springs go in very short order, but since I put in the 15mm boss - no problems. Thought we had the problem fixed. Indeed, this was the fix eventually given by MG service bulletin. So it puzzles me why yours broke.

 

Guzzi also supply a spring with a larger diameter winding - did you compare new spring w/old?.

 

KB

[Richard]

The old spring seems to have a larger radius bend for the pin arm, but other than that they are identical. Both have a 17mm internal diameter.

[belfastguzzi]

The old spring seems to have a larger radius bend for the pin arm, but other than that they are identical. Both have a 17mm internal diameter.

Your new spring looks like the standard spring. The broken one is the odd one, with that big curve.

Was that shape used by Guzzi at some stage, anyone know?

 

Immediate edit after second look:

Hang on – is that curve not the coil part of the wire?

The hook has broken off and is possibly still in your gearbox! Do you think so?

 

Another edit:

I think I misunderstood you because of th eway that the parts are positioned in the photo.

Looks like the final bend / hook is still there, facing up at the camera.

 

So what do you mean by a larger radius bend?

You mean that the long wire section is slightly bent??

 

17mm inside is ok, as long as boss is 15mm.