Scura Seat Stuck

[mznyc]

Hey Guys,

Anyone got a suggestion bout gettin the seat off when stuck?Did see the posts about seat/fast idle swap after the fact.(my fast idle lever has never worked,but figured I would fix when it starts getting cold,....now)

Will do the swap once I get the damm thing off.Doesn't seem like there's any tension when I put key in release position(rearward?).Should there be?On all my other bikes(Hondas)you do feel the stopper putting pressure on the spring.

Thanks,

Michael

[Admin Jaap]

Try applying gentle pressure on the seat cowl while turning the the seat latch key.

[mznyc]

Try applying gentle pressure on the seat cowl while turning the the seat latch key.

Thanks Jaap,

Tried that.For about a hour I tried all kinds of wiggles,dancing,swearing at the country of my ancestors(Italy)and with hat in hand I return to the forum looking for someone who is much smarter than me,or less dummerer, has had a similar problemn and had found a fixthanks,

Michael

[helicopterjim R.I.P.]

Maybe it has a stuck tip-over valve on the seat causing seat suck!!

 

With no tension on the key I suspect something has become disconnected. I don't know what you can do except start disassembling the tailpiece (if that is even possible with the seat on).

 

I hope someone can help you.

 

Cheers

Jim

[Guest ratchethack]

Michael, this is a little fiddly, but it should work.

 

Use a knife and/or screwdriver to carefully pry the seat latch cable housing end-piece away from the lock housing. You'll find the cable end piece fairly accessible, just aft of the seat release lock. This will in effect shorten the cable, and should give you just enough additional travel to pop the seat release. You shouldn't need more than a couple o' thousandths of an inch. Hold the knife/screwdriver with y'er left hand. Using y'er right, turn the key full counter-clockwise. You might have to wiggle things a little and work the key back and forth to get a little "persuasion" going. An additional pair o' hands f'er assistance couldn't hurt.

 

My seat release was "borderline" until I put a 3 mm spacer between the cable end under the seat and the cable retainer, which effectively shortened the cable by 3 mm. This, along with the Ledgendary Skeeve Spring Swap, completed the permanent solution.

 

Good luck.

[belfastguzzi]

As Ratchet says.

~ and as I happen to have a couple of pics that I used in a previous thread, might as well post them again ~

 

The standard opening arrangement is nice and simple but not a triumph of slick and accurate fitting. As standard, the seat opening mech. is marginally effective and this may be your problem. Open it (following Ratchet's instructions) and then fix it so it doesn't keep on happening.

 

The inner cable wire is too long, so the latch doesn't start to open when the key is turned.

Whether you keep the in-situ spring or swap it, add a collar to take-up wire slack.

and then the seat opens straight away, without excess force.

[helicopterjim R.I.P.]

I just finished checking mine to see if I could find a solution but it seems lots of help is already at hand.

 

Interestingly, after looking at belfasts photos, my seat is properly adjusted from the factory. I have approximately 1 mm of slack in the cable and it works quite well. I suppose that most are this way but some have slipped through QC with excess slack.

 

Good luck mznyc (I'll not try to pronounce that).

 

Jim

[belfastguzzi]

slipped through QC with excess slack.

QC with excess slack

 

It's all in the (mis)reading and (mis)understanding. Punctuation may be required for qualification.

 

Is there a dept. called 'Quality Control With Excess Slack'? I would llike to think so.

 

Or is it just that some wiry bits with excess slack in 'em, slip through Quality Control?

[Jap In OZ]

my scura always objected opening up for me... mine really needs a bit of force! rather than gentle persuation.

 

Good luck!

 

[Guest Mattress]

My seat opens fine too. but it is not a scura. 04 sport.

 

Now, the helmet lock sucks. Anyone know of a mod here other than handlebar end lock?

[dlaing]

I put a couple washers under the latch and now I don't have to push down so hard on the back of the Corbin seat to allow the latch to release.

Just incase you never heard of the legendary Skeeve spring swap: many bikes shipped with the seat latch spring and the choke spring reversed. Skeeve somehow figured this out.

[Guest Nogbad]

As Ratchet says.

~ and as I happen to have a couple of pics that I used in a previous thread, might as well post them again ~

 

The standard opening arrangement is nice and simple but not a triumph of slick and accurate fitting. As standard, the seat opening mech. is marginally effective and this may be your problem. Open it (following Ratchet's instructions) and then fix it so it doesn't keep on happening.

 

The inner cable wire is too long, so the latch doesn't start to open when the key is turned.

Whether you keep the in-situ spring or swap it, add a collar to take-up wire slack.

and then the seat opens straight away, without excess force.

 

IT'S A BODGE! You seem addicted to using bent bits of waste aluminium applied with pliers.

 

Bodgefastguzzi

[Paul Minnaert]

The thingie where you put your key in, has no other job than sliding the inner cable outside the outer cable. So look where the cable comes out of it, is it loose. If it is maybe something is wrong on the other side under the seat. but else try to but something in between, so you get tension on the key when operated.

If operrated, giving a hard bump with your hand on the back of the seat can help. It does on japs scura.

[mznyc]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the help.I got it open by gaining access to the latch mount through the rear fender,Removed the half fender underneath,loosed the nuts holding the latch mount from underneath and the latch gave loose right away!

Thanks,

Another fix for all!

Michael

[belfastguzzi]

japs scura.

 

IT'S A BODGE!

You may remember that this was the time of the infamous bodge, where an aluminium roller collar was constructed to maximise the operation of the fast idle cam ~~ before I thought about it and realised there was probably an adjustment to be had by way of a simple srew fastener. And indeed there was.

 

waste aluminium

There's no such thing?