550 watt alternator

[docc]

I'm reading the 1200 Sport has a 550 watt alternator. Would that retro fit to the 1064 motor?

 

The V11 is rated at 350 but at 10,000 rpm. Maybe thay rated this new one at 20, 000.

[macguzzi]

No it's in a different place above engine like breva

[dlaing]

I'm reading the 1200 Sport has a 550 watt alternator. Would that retro fit to the 1064 motor?

 

The V11 is rated at 350 but at 10,000 rpm. Maybe thay rated this new one at 20, 000.

It might fit the 1064cc engine of the Breva and Griso.

But that probably is not what you wanted to know, as they also have a 550W alternator, and probably the same one.

So, yah it won't fit unless you create some elaborate system of brackets and pulleys, but then where would you put the supercharger?????

If you want more available power, I recommend energy conservation, using LED and or HID lighting.

You would think there would be stator rewinding service that could rewind with silver wire or something to give the alternator more output. Even if something like that exists you would probably have to upgrade the regulator and maybe the wiring. EDIT apparently silver wire is about $75 per foot, so unless we are going on the space shuttle, I don't think silver wiring is feasable. But maybe a few extra turns rewinding the copper????

Speaking of which, the wire going from my regulator to battery did have resistance in it, probably from getting cooked when the regulator died, and a few people have cooked their alternator fuse.

I recommend people watch that fuse for signs of melting from heat build up, and if necessary run a bypass wire of two gauges heavier wire from the regulator to the battery, with an inline fuse....after their warranty expires

[jrt]

I'm not sure silver wire would give any benefits. The difference in resistance/capacitance of Cu and Ag are negligable. A better solution would be to increase the inductance of the alternator by decreasing the gap between rotor and stator. A few more windings around the rotor would give better output.

[dlaing]

I'm not sure silver wire would give any benefits. The difference in resistance/capacitance of Cu and Ag are negligable. A better solution would be to increase the inductance of the alternator by decreasing the gap between rotor and stator. A few more windings around the rotor would give better output.

Quick research at a remote control car websit seemed to indicate that silver would offer very little improvement.

Resistance is only 5% better and I am not sure this would even produce 5% more power, maybe with a few extra turns of the wire.

The stator would probably end up costing several thousand dollars because of the cost of the wire.

So forget I ever asked.

[callison]

I'm reading the 1200 Sport has a 550 watt alternator. Would that retro fit to the 1064 motor?

 

The V11 is rated at 350 but at 10,000 rpm. Maybe thay rated this new one at 20, 000.

 

550 watts @ 2000 rpm. A real alternator for a change! You could probably do a retrofit to the motor somehow, but not to the frame (spine frame/tonti). Not enough space.

[Guest ratchethack]

The strength of the rotating magnet is the main obstacle, next is the saturable magnetic material in the stator. Adding turns will increase the voltage, heavier wire will increase the current, only if the magnetic core can meet the increased demand.

I presume this to be correct, Gary -- it seems to fit my one-time understanding (much of which is now lost to the fog of time). . . . . . But do you know what happens when the core can't match the demand, as might be the case with a re-wound stator with same number of turns with higher-guage wire -- assuming it physically fits??

 

Seems to me there's no problem, it's just maxed-out and can't do any more, but it now reaches max current output at a lower RPM??

 

Enquiring minds just gotta know. . . . . .

[Guest ratchethack]

The designers do a pretty good job of converting the available magnetic flux into electricity within the space limitations that are present.

Thanks, Gary. I meant "heavier gauge" as in lower wire gauge number. More'n likely wouldn't fit the physical constraints of the stator anyway.

 

Yeah, I reckon it's yet another one o' those things that best not be second-guessed, per the expensive, risky, yet ever-so-popular "more is better" modification philosophy. . . . .

 

If I were trying to power all the auxilliary systems on a 2-wheel land yacht in cold weather, I might get excited about more output. Thankfully, that ain't happenin' much here.

 

Just curious.

[docc]

The strength of the rotating magnet is the main obstacle, next is the saturable magnetic material in the stator. Adding turns will increase the voltage, heavier wire will increase the current, only if the magnetic core can meet the increased demand.

 

 

OK, I'm thinking that means 'no.'

 

It's getting cold now and I know my system won't hold both the Gerbings jacket and gloves (99 watts).

unless I can find a way to maintain that 10,000 rpm and get all 350 watts . . .

[dlaing]

You could put a 12AH deep cycle battery in your tank bag and just run your heated stuff off of that, just keep it isolated from our dainty charging system.

[mike wilson]

There's also the Enduralast option. Like Guzzi, it doesn't make much more power over stock but it does make a lot of that power lower down. Actually, maybe that's more of a Harley analogy.

 

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/