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Out of excuses on non-starting V11


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Posted

Hmmm. 2000 V11 Sport, I've had for about four months and 2K miles, 12K miles on bike.

Was out on a ride today, tried to start the bike at destination, no start, no whir, nothing. Try a couple more times, bike starts right up, runs fine. Couple of stops, bike starts/runs fine. Final stop, try to start bike, nothing again.

 

Side stand up, bike in neutral (light works), clutch in. Nothing. Toggle kill switch a couple of times, nothing. Toggle ignition switch a couple of times, nothing. Try again while fishing for AAA card, bike starts right up, runs fine all the way home (80 miles). Stop in garage, try to restart, starts right up.

 

So, I get on the board here and start searching, and find all sorts of helpful info. Fortunately, or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it, the previous owner really did an excellent job of maintenance on the bike. Here's what I found:

 

- Relays already replaced with 5-pin Bosch, except starter relay replaced with magic GEI relay.

- Clutch microswitch makes clicky noise even with snazzy CNG lever.

- Clutch switch connectors under tank replaced with spade connectors and neatly heat-shrinked.

- Newish battery shows 12.33 volts at rest. (Bike cranks strong when it decides to crank.

 

Ummm... now what do I do? :huh2:

 

KeS

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Posted

Right off I would have said: clutcth switch connectors or neutral connector ( at the left side plate on the gearbox.)

 

But, at 12.33v the battery should read 12.7 and with a HAWKER oDYSSEY: 12.84.

 

The battery could be unhappy. Is it the original?

Posted

It still sounds like the clutch interlock switch connectors to me or perhaps the wires at the switch. For now, bypass the connections under the tank and if the problem persists, at least you what isn't part of the problem.

Posted

My money is on charging system and or battery.

 

Just in case, I had a good experience with Glenn's Cycle Tow of Escondido, California.

Toll Free 866.848.4984

$100 flat rate and outstanding service.

An alternative is San Diego Motorcycle Towing, $75 for first 30 miles, but I have not tried them.

Posted

No, the battery isn't original, it's fairly new. Seems odd that it would start the bike after sitting (non-charging) for several weeks, then fail to start after an hour ride, then decide it suddenly had enough voltage after several starting attempts and crank the bike strongly. ??

 

I can bypass the clutch interlock, certainly. Does it need to be shorted or open?

 

Tx for suggestions.

 

KeS

Posted

It should be shorted.

 

Thanks. Since you're in SD, do you have a recommendation on where to have mechanical work performed? GP downtown?

 

KeS

Posted

Thanks. Since you're in SD, do you have a recommendation on where to have mechanical work performed? GP downtown?

 

KeS

I go to Sonny Angel, Don is an amazing mechanic and their service prices are very reasonable....I think shop rate is $50/hour.

But I also hear nothing but good things about GP. I just have not tried GP since Sonny Angel is so good.

Posted

Right off I would have said: clutcth switch connectors or neutral connector ( at the left side plate on the gearbox.)

 

But, at 12.33v the battery should read 12.7 and with a HAWKER oDYSSEY: 12.84.

 

The battery could be unhappy. Is it the original?

 

 

Oh Dear - fordet all the tech. stuff.

 

Simply soak the ignition swithch in WD40 or similar for a few hours - problem solved.

 

Keep it sprayed, especially after a downpour or washing the 'bike.

 

Rocker.

Posted

Does wiggling the bars make a difference? Might be a slightly loose connector in the switch harness connection to the main harness, usually under the tank.

Posted

Iwould examine the kill/start switch and maybe try a bypass there. I have had several problems with mine and after a careful dissection found the internals coming apart, making an intermitent connection. I repaired it with a small nylon tie until I can get a new one...no problems since

Guest Gary Cheek
Posted

RE: as Mike Wilson stated.

 

Nine times out of ten your symptoms lead to the clutch switch CONNECTORS just behind the front of the tank, left side. They are crappy bullet connectors and the constant tugging from steering loosens them up. Add a little corrosion and you have a classic intermittent operation. Remove the tank and you will find the pair of connectors. You can clean them , put a little anti-sieze on the metal and retighten them or replace thm with better stuff.

Posted

KeS might not have to worry about the llast two suggestions:

KeS wrote:

"- Relays already replaced with 5-pin Bosch, except starter relay replaced with magic GEI relay.

snip

- Clutch switch connectors under tank replaced with spade connectors and neatly heat-shrinked."

Of course the GEI relay could still fail and the under tank connectors could still face the same problem as the original bullets.

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