staedtler Posted November 20, 2006 Author Posted November 20, 2006 But some of your symptoms could also be explained by clutch failure.... FooOOK!... i noticed earlier that day the clutch slipping, just once....the oil light came up just for a moment ....i lowered the revs and the clutch engaged, the light was gone..... (the clutch slips every now and then, i'm used to it) oohh shit... i remember that the whole thing started right after i came out of a high speed sweeper, i was leaning pretty good,..... foook fok....
badmotogoozer Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 Hate to say it, bud, but my moneys on either the oil filter coming loose or the oil level is down, exposing the pick up. Either way it would mean a new crank and rod bearings at least... Pull the pan (or even just the manhole) and check the status of the filter... If she's come loose expect the above. If tight and you've been keeping on top of the oil level, you might just be lucky enough that it is the clutch. Would the oil pressure indicator come on if the clutch goes?? Don't know but I don't think so... Think I'll be watching epay for a spare crank, just for karma... cheers, Rj
Dan M Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 This doesn't sound good. Noise, oil light, misfire all at once is trouble. The oil light coming on is signaling what might be a major bottom end problem. I don't see a connection between the oil light and the clutch slipping though Hope there is not too much damage. It would be bad if the filter came loose, not only because of what it will cost you, but the "I told you so's" from Greg may prove unbearable
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 I've seen a sheared oil pump key. Only one but that means it CAN happen! Any oil dripping from the clutch area? I wouldn't bother pulling the manhole , go for the sump bottom get a flashlight and a mirror or get your head under and look up. A wriggle and a shake here and there. Take off the alternator cover, work the clutch a bit and force thecrank fore-aft to check end play. Should be nil, likely not. Dan M quote; "It would be bad if the filter came loose, not only because of what it will cost you, but the "I told you so's" from Greg may prove unbearable " Not unbearable, expected. Proves nothing but another improperly tightenend filter in any event. Or perhaps a rash of bad UFIs Lets hope it isn't a loose hose clamp that caused the whole mess!
Dan M Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 "It would be bad if the filter came loose, not only because of what it will cost you, but the "I told you so's" from Greg may prove unbearable " Not unbearable, expected. Prooves nothing but another improperly tightenend filter in any event. Or perhaps a rash of bad UFIs Lets hope it isn't a loose hose clamp that caused the whole mess! Oh I'm not giving up my (our) theory about installer error / faulty filters. Just referring to the the title of Greg's original post "tighten up those filters boys" It would surely suck (air that is) if it was found to be loose.
staedtler Posted November 20, 2006 Author Posted November 20, 2006 HOLLY FOOOK!! scroll down to post #10... mine is the same exact thing!!! i bought it from them to!!!.....FOOOK!!!
richard100t Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 Doesnt Bigbikerick live in your neck of the woods in Arizona? I dont know but does he still have the engine from his v11? If he does it may be easier just to swap motors That is if you need a new motor
staedtler Posted November 20, 2006 Author Posted November 20, 2006 ... let's see.... 389.99 high comp. piston kit (might as well) 529.60 carrillo conn. rods 1,995.00 billet crank shaft (special order) *no shit* plus balancing and labor i'll say a good 3500 TO 4000 +/- ... F O O K M E
pete roper Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 HOLLY FOOOK!! scroll down to post #10... mine is the same exact thing!!! i bought it from them to!!!.....FOOOK!!! It's sounding more and more like you've run the big ends. If you're lucky the crank will be reclaimable with a bit of elbow grease but if you were pushing on a bit I'd strongly recommend re-sizing the rods before they go back in. Id also suggest doing something to prevent it happening again, the cheap option or the expensive one, they both work. Pete
badmotogoozer Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 Just out of curiosity - when was your last filter changed and who was it done by? Make of filter (if known)? Rj
staedtler Posted November 20, 2006 Author Posted November 20, 2006 Dude... looks like you're right a friend of mine did it ... he's a tuner / racer, he has a shop. no real experience with italian bikes though.... chances are the focker screw up and the filter got fookd!!! goddmmt!.... that bs is going to cost me about 4G's!!!
slug Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 Doesnt Bigbikerick live in your neck of the woods in Arizona? I dont know but does he still have the engine from his v11? If he does it may be easier just to swap motors That is if you need a new motor Rick sold it to a fellow forum member a month ago.
Admin Jaap Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 That's big bucks! Just a suggestion: You can get a new complete V11 engine for less at HMB Guzzi in Germany. Prices from € 2390,- w/o shipping. http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 Heck, I'll sell you a complete , running V11 for $4500! Throw in the CF Mistrals and a few other goodies! You can take the engine and part the rest . Do it right and you'll get your money back.
Wick Posted November 20, 2006 Posted November 20, 2006 Put it on a trailer and take it down to MPH and let Haven fix it. Mine ran a lot better overall after they got done with it. While your at it, have them put on the Roper plate so you won't have to go through this again........... Wick
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