Headlight hookup question...

[RacerX]

Guys, I've had my older LeMon headlight off for quite some time, and need to know which position each wire/connector goes to on the OEM H4 plug to the back of the light/element. I have the diagram, but need to know the actual position (i.e. left, right, top).

 

Thanks for any/all quick replies.

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Looking at the connector from the rear with the center pin at top, the left is ground the center is dip and the right is high beam. You can refer to the link below, there is a diagram for headlight relays on one of the pages with the pin-out. Click on drawing to enlarge or link below for full web site.

 

In the drawing yellow is dip, red is high and black is common or ground.

[RacerX]

Thanks Gary!

[Guest Gary Cheek]

4 minutes, pretty good service or what?

[RacerX]

4 minutes, pretty good service or what?

Heh, fantastic. Just what I needed. Got the new HID set-up working. Full report on GuzziTech.com coming soon.

 

Thanks again(!).

[mznyc]

Heh, fantastic. Just what I needed. Got the new HID set-up working. Full report on GuzziTech.com coming soon.

 

Thanks again(!).

Hi RX,

Just wondering what you changed.I'm not too impressed with the amount of light my Scura puts out on backroads.I'm thinkin about trying LED as some suggested on an eletrical thread I had started.

Thanks,

Michael http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9075

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Very anxious to see that. I have been considering the plunge for some time. This may be the deciding factor.

Glad to help.

 

Hi RX,

Just wondering what you changed.I'm not too impressed with the amount of light my Scura puts out on backroads.I'm thinkin about trying LED as some suggested on an eletrical thread I had started.

Thanks,

Michael http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9075

MZNYC,

 

If you are using the factory wiring and switching you ain't getting the light you should get. You HAVE to add RELAYS to make the lights work well. The relays also make the factory switch gear immortal by comparison.

[mznyc]

Very anxious to see that. I have been considering the plunge for some time. This may be the deciding factor.

Glad to help.

MZNYC,

 

If you are using the factory wiring and switching you ain't getting the light you should get. You HAVE to add RELAYS to make the lights work well. The relays also make the factory switch gear immortal by comparison.

Gary is there a thread that explains this.

Thanks,

Michael

[mznyc]

Gary,does the Eastern Beaver setup replicate the homemade one as discussed on the forum?

Thanks,

Michael

[Guest Gary Cheek]

In the factory setup, typically the power flows through a fuse on ot the start/ headlight relay through the igniton switch, through the headlight switch, through the dimmer switch then through the light bulb and on to ground. Not always in that order, give or take a switch etc. All the devices are interconnected with pretty skimpy wire, the ground side is also deficient in that some arrangements ground at the forks,allowing thre current to flow through another high resistance path to ground. The current flowing through the bearings errodes the bearings as well. The resulting voltage across the filament may wind up at a volt or two below battery voltage. This causes a substantial light output loss. The energy is wasted heating wire and tiny contacts.

By routing a heavy gauge wire directly from a fused tap at the battery to a pair of relays at the headlight (one for high and one for low beam)you gain a short low resistance path for the current flow. A pair of heavy contacts in the relay now turn the desired filaments on and off. The original headlight wiring now turns the relay's magnetic coils off and on which requires very kittle current flow. Since you have lightened the current load on the over-taxed original headlighr system all of the switches, wiring etc are releived of that duty ,it's heat and high current arcing when making/breaking contact. A new heavy gauge ground is also run to the FRAME, engine or battery negative as the ground side is often a high resistance path in the original scheme.

Typically the voltage drop at the light is less than 1/4 volt with a good relay system.

 

On the way to the Michigan Guzzi rally last Sept my buddy Mike was riding his stock Scura, I was on my V11 Sort. Jim, usually riding lead on his Eldo pulled over and wanted to check Mike's electrics. Mike's headlight was piss tellow while the V11 was brilliant white light, this was daytime riding. Mike's battery and alternator were fine it was the factory wiring VS relays that made the difference. Mike now has relays and a nice bright light.

 

Brighter lights and much longer life.

 

I am not familiar with Eastern Beaver but there are quite a few relay kits out there. Make sure with any kit that the supply wire is adequate and that the ground is replaced with a heavy lead back to the frame, engine or battery.

 

If there is enough interest I could probably run off a few kits.

[mznyc]

Hi Gary,

Here's a link to Eastern Beaver http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Pro...ts/h4_kits.html.

Would love to have your on this.It's $45.00US, which if it does what we needs it to do ,sounds like a good deal.They also make an Aux light relay kit which would be great for those of us looking to ad a liitle xtra low power light.

Thanks,

Michael

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Hello Michael,

 

That looks a lot like the kit I have been making and using for over thirty years. The mini relays are recent developmrnt as origianlly I used Declo power top relays! They were pretty big and in metal cans.

From what I can see they are using 14 gauge supply wire which is quite good enough fro the stock 55/60 watt H4. Looks to be a well made, serviceable system. About the only difference is I use a high temp headlight connector with a rubber insulating boot and I like to crimp, then solder oll terminals.. I do like the connector they use to connect with the old headlight plug. I use individual connectors or splice into the factory wires. Ther setup in simple and quick to use. With either kit the factory wiring is left intact and in the unlikely event of a relay problem you simply unplug the relays and replug the factory headlight connector and resume riding with the old yellow light

[mznyc]

Hello Michael,

 

That looks a lot like the kit I have been making and using for over thirty years. The mini relays are recent developmrnt as origianlly I used Declo power top relays! They were pretty big and in metal cans.

From what I can see they are using 14 gauge supply wire which is quite good enough fro the stock 55/60 watt H4. Looks to be a well made, serviceable system. About the only difference is I use a high temp headlight connector with a rubber insulating boot and I like to crimp, then solder oll terminals.. I do like the connector they use to connect with the old headlight plug. I use individual connectors or splice into the factory wires. Ther setup in simple and quick to use. With either kit the factory wiring is left intact and in the unlikely event of a relay problem you simply unplug the relays and replug the factory headlight connector and resume riding with the old yellow light

Thanks for the input Gary!As always very helpful.May be a post holiday project!I'll let you know what happens if I buy a kit.

Michael

[Guest Gary Cheek]

Thanks for the input Gary!As always very helpful.May be a post holiday project!I'll let you know what happens if I buy a kit.

Michael

 

You will wonder why you waited!

Cheers, Gary

[mznyc]

Does anybody know anything about these kits offered by TLM,?

http://www.tlm.nl/nieuws/?id=36

Thanks,

Michael