rear drive torque arm

[Lucky Phil]

Would it be possible to cut/chop out the old bushings and press a couple of spherical plain bearings in i wonder?

Of course you can. Thats what my bike has effectively in the form of a Rossopuro unit.

Ciao

[stewgnu]

You could....and you would have a stiff arm linkage for this to work with / against . Think about that.

So the cushioning effect of the OE arms bushings is necessary?

 

I've got a rossopuro on my bike too and am just about to replace the rose joints for the first time.

I did think that it's a lot of force slamming thru these rod ends on acceleration and braking- the bearing supplier I use mentioned that it may be possible to get 'racing spec' or heavy duty joints for more longevity.

 

When the rod ends started to wear it manifested in the dreaded rear end 'clunking' sound as the bevel box rotated.

[victor]

One of the forum member use this

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/black-series/product-details/100+Series+Top-Hat+Bush/8517.html

[victor]

I've found the topic

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17685&hl=bush&page=2

[gstallons]

Yes , there needs to be cushion in this arm . A rigid link is not a good deal .

[docc]

Yes , there needs to be cushion in this arm . A rigid link is not a good deal .

The factory design does have *some* give, but with the rear drive off, the torque arm sticks straight out, self supporting. I've often wondered how much "damping" that creates in the rear suspension travel.

 

Looks like the same discussion is going on on this thread in Technical Topics:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17685&p=209958

 

I suppose we should pick one thread or the other to hash out our ideas and opinions on the effects of various methods of attaching the torque/reaction rod.

[stewgnu]

Yes , there needs to be cushion in this arm . A rigid link is not a good deal .

Would this be for easing strain on the bevel system/driveline?

Or avoiding handling issues?

 

I ask as I've not felt any detriment in handling since fitting the RP unit.

Plus, why are all the aftermarket ones 'solid' links?

As docc says- won't the suspension (and cush??) absorb shocks?

[gstallons]

It is to lessen the strain on the driveline . And Docc's comment is true too.

[docc]

It occurs to me that we could be talking of fore-and-aft rigidity, like Heim joints would provide, which is good, versus rotational rigidity which would resist the rise and fall of the suspension travel - which would be bad.

 

I am presuming Heim joints and Rose joints are one and the same?

[Lucky Phil]

It occurs to me that we could be talking of fore-and-aft rigidity, like Heim joints would provide, which is good, versus rotational rigidity which would resist the rise and fall of the suspension travel - which would be bad.

 

I am presuming Heim joints and Rose joints are one and the same?

Yes the same. As I pointed out in another thread it seems, no cushioning is necessary. The original design is what it is because its cheap to make, less machining. One machining operation and press fit some bushes. Cheap and cheerful. It has to be a hydrolastic bush only because its bolted up tight. The bush is there to allow the rear suspension to work not for shock absorption.

A rod ended torque arm has zero end or side float and the anchor points at both the frame and Bevel box are cruise liner dimensions. So they are rugged. 

In case nobody has noticed Guzzi don't just over engineer everything they over engineer it then add some.

That's why they weigh a ton.

 

Ciao

[stewgnu]

Its a pig of a job... I initially thought as i wrestled the wheel out, got filthy and whacked my grimy knuckles on the swingarm for the umpteenth time...

Then, once I'd wiped down all the areas accessable with the rear wheel out, cleaned and checked the caliper, given the front shaft nipple a pump or three (sooo satisfying), greased the bevel needle bearing and shaft splines, looked at the torque rod- all clean with lovely new rod ends fitted... I thought: It was damn worth it.

[cash1000]

Hi Victor

 

Have you got a source for the bush that has an English language website?

I can't translate the website you gave from german to English.

I didn't replace the original damaged bush and the 8.8 bolt is showing signs of wear.

I until I sort replacement bush I've replaced with a new bolt.

[cash1000]

Has anybody replaced the bush with the item Victor recommends?

I've found same bush at Gutsibits part no WHA88345  www.gutsibits.co.uk

But they recommend it only for the CART Guzzi models.

I've got them checking price and availability for the whole arm but don't expect it will be cheap!

They have quoted  160 pound incl freight to NZ with a 8 week wait.

[cash1000]

Found a solution

These people will take out old bush and make a new one for about $NZ50

www.autolign.co.nz

Look under products/bushes/Nolathane Bushes:

 

http://www.autolign.co.nz/catalogue/nolathane-bushes/index

[Tom M]

I've seen the posts here about the reaction rod bushings deteriorating so I've been checking mine for slop a couple times a year.  A few months ago I noticed that I could move the rod by hand a little so I think it's time for new bushings. 

 

Has anyone found replacement bushings that are available in the USA?

 

The rod has to rotate at both ends as the swingarm moves up & down.  Is it supposed to rotate on the bolts that secure it, or is the steel inner sleeve supposed to rotate inside the rubber bushing?