rear drive torque arm

[gstallons]

The rubber in the bushings twists . The sleeve is to be clamped with the bolt into it's retainer .

[docc]

The rubber in the bushings twists . The sleeve is to be clamped with the bolt into it's retainer .

This is true. I have long thought it would be better to have free rotation at these points.

 

If anyone is going to solve this, it will be this V11LeMans Community!

[JesterGrin_1]

 You could replace it with this from Ghezzi Brian http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/tuning-moto/tuning-moto-guzzi/v11-1100-sport-daytona-centauro/push-rod/

 

 There are options other than store purchase if one wishes. You can make them out of Delrin or a form of poly that is used in many performance suspension systems. But as mentioned on this forum if one uses a polyurethane then it is highly recommended to lube them well with a molly grease or they will squeak but then again heck they still may squeak lol. But it would not be hard to install a zerk fitting to throw lubricant on them now and again.  

[gstallons]

When you mount this link , these two mounting bolts need to be tightened with normal rider weight on the bike .

[Tom M]

Thanks guys.  I'm a little surprised that these last as long as they do with those sleeves twisting around in the rubber.

 

I'm bringing the link with me when I pick up my freshly rebuilt rear shock tomorrow from a local suspension guru.  I'm hoping he can find some replacement bushings.  I'm also considering making one up myself with a couple spherical rod ends.  Maybe something like this?

 

[gstallons]

You can but , there is no "give" whatsoever with this type of setup .

[GuzziMoto]

You can but , there is no "give" whatsoever with this type of setup .

My opinion.....

Give is not really desirable for what it does. It is locating the rear bevel box, keeping it oriented correctly while separating its orientation from suspension movement.

The factory uses a rubber bushing for cost reasons and to reduce any vibration feedback through the link. But it is not any sort of "cush drive", it does not there to reduce shock to the drive train. There is a cush drive where the rear wheel meets the bevel box for that.

[Tom M]

I agree GM, the cush drive should provide adequate shock absorption.

 

Here's another solution that could work.  Off the shelf spherical bearings could be pressed into the stock dog bone in place of the rubber bushings, then mounted with custom spacer bushings.  If my suspension guy doesn't come though with replacement bushings I might have to give this a try.

 

(One end is cut away to show bushing fit)

[JesterGrin_1]

Tom M run with it. It can be as cheap or expensive as you wish it to be. Not to mention as blingy or as plain as you wish.

[gstallons]

Looks good . Get it !

[Lucky Phil]

You can but , there is no "give" whatsoever with this type of setup .

No "give" is needed. I've used one of these for years without issues. Stock arm is a mass production compromise.

 

Ciao 

[gstallons]

We have the freedom of choice......

[czakky]

Tom, what ever came of this?

 

I'm thinking of doing a female threaded aluminum rod with correct rose joints to replace mine. Unless there is a bearing/spacer combo somebody has tried?

[Tom M]

Tom, what ever came of this?

 

I'm thinking of doing a female threaded aluminum rod with correct rose joints to replace mine. Unless there is a bearing/spacer combo somebody has tried?

 

Waiting to see if my local suspension guy can source new bushings for the stock arm.  He's had it for a few weeks so I should know one way or another soon.

[sp838]

Tom, what ever came of this?

 

I'm thinking of doing a female threaded aluminum rod with correct rose joints to replace mine. Unless there is a bearing/spacer combo somebody has tried?

 

If I was to do it over, I'd make my own. I've got the Ghezzi Brian one, it's very nice, but I think I could have made my own for less, using tricker parts and materials.

 

Some 7068 round bar and a couple chromoly+PTFE rod ends, and done.