Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

 

Recently went out in strong winds, at night, in the rain, with heavy oncoming traffic, lights ablaze ... I couldn't see a lot ...

 

I've been looking for the threads on headlamp relays, bulbs etc : can someone be so kind as to indicate the threads ? Or tell me your experience on the best improvement is, in terms of relays, bulbs etc ? I don't want to spend a lot (Scottish origins... or maybe it's just me) and I like the bike as it is, so no additional driving lamps (anyway, the problem with seeing at night is always, in my humble opinion, on dipped beam, not when there's nothing coming and you can happily light up the universe (I used to have both beams on, on my Mk1 Le Mans in the good old days, with 100W on main, which helped keep your hands warm from the radiation - never melted though).

 

Otherwise, seasonal :food: salutations to you all, great website ...

 

Pete :mg:

Posted

OK perhaps the best sollution would be to add some extra headlights ,someone here has done it and looked OK with 2 small lights on the sides.

I just changes the bulbs to these pictured above and the difference in luminence was quite big for the better.

The rest is on the headlight as there is not potent enough to bring light I suppose.

It is still not enough but much much stronger than before, I couldn't expect for any better..it is a 55/60W that lights as a 135W

If you find some of those buy them. The blue one on the left even though blue ,lights up and looks as white. the other one is more to Blue light look.

 

dscn2187is5.jpg

Posted

Plenty of posts on here about lighting including solutions that involve rewiring to get more direct power to your light. use the search facility to get the info you need.

 

I prefer to keep things simple- a 100/80w bulb.

 

Works for me.

 

Guy :helmet:

Posted

Gary Cheek is helping me re-wire mine with relays.

I took a before photo and hope to show an after photo, with luck, today.

I messed up on the shrink wrap

(I think it was a plastic drinking straw for my green shrink wrap :angry: )

And now it is too difficult to slide the shrink wrap that works over my crimped and soldered connector, so I will use liquid electrical tape, which is :moon: ugly. So, don't expect a photo of the installation :lol:

Posted

Hello guys

 

Firstly, thanks to all : I managed to find Gary Cheek's instructions on how to do the relays.

 

Secondly, I bought a H4 Phillips "50% more light" bulb, which should go in tomorrow, easy.

 

For the relays, where do you find them ? Do you have to go to a specialist shop or what ? Is there a website in Europe for these ?

 

Also, on Gary's instructions, I read "16 gauge" wire : is this how many mm² is this ?

 

Enjoy your Sunday. Who's going out ? I hope to !

 

Pete

Posted

Hello guys

 

Firstly, thanks to all : I managed to find Gary Cheek's instructions on how to do the relays.

 

Secondly, I bought a H4 Phillips "50% more light" bulb, which should go in tomorrow, easy.

 

For the relays, where do you find them ? Do you have to go to a specialist shop or what ? Is there a website in Europe for these ?

 

Also, on Gary's instructions, I read "16 gauge" wire : is this how many mm² is this ?

 

Enjoy your Sunday. Who's going out ? I hope to !

 

Pete

For relays, you can use the kind that are under your seat.

They are a good choice because they are compact.

 

The larger the gauge, the thinner the wire.

From a conversion chart, 16 gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5mm.

14 gauge is between 1.5 and 2.5mm

 

No riding for me this weekend :(

Posted

OK, as promised here are the before and after shots:

Both taken at f stop 2.8 at 1/60 of a second with a digital camera.

I wish I had done this sooner!

Thanks Gary! :bier:

Before:lobeambeforeea3.jpg

 

Afterlobeamafteryl5.jpg

Posted

I colorized Gary's diagram.

gcth8.gif

Note that on my 2000 V11S the yellow wire is green and the red wire is brown.

I suspect later Guzzis also have the green and brown wires.

Posted

So, if I am seeing the sketch correctly, these two relays and the associated wiring go in between the original headlight connector and the lamp assy. itself?

Thanks!

Posted

Looks like a good project for the winter. After I get the interior back in my Comet. And the motor in the truck. And finish the cabinets in the kitchen...ah, I'll get to it by spring. :)

Guest ratchethack
Posted

Hey Gary. Confession time. :blush:

 

Now I've successfully wired up so many relays in so many vehicles that I lost track of them all so long ago (including the 2 cars I'm now driving!) that I forgot when I forgot when it EVER didn't work. . . . . . . :oldgit:

 

. . . Until now. I diligently followed y'er most excellent diagram 2 years ago (I think it was) -- and FAILED to make it work!!! :homer:

 

I'm 100% convinced that I blew it, but it was one of those things where the fault was ABSOLUTELY INDETERMINABLE!!!!!! I'm not questioning y'er diagram. I tested and re-re-re-re-re-tested the damn thing for a week, tested the relays and every QUALITY solder joint at least 3X. I finally gave up when the foggy memories of the Allied Radio Knight Kit (Chicago) shortwave radio kit (tube amp of course!) that I worked on all winter (age 12) came back to me in a flood. I wound up having to send the completed, non-working radio back to the factory in Chicago for "critical rewiring". As I recall, the charge for rewiring was about $10. :lol: When she came back, she worked like a Champ! :blush:

 

Now, perhaps because of such childhood memories, I'm more'n determined to have another go and make this work! I'd used Bosch and Siemens relays last pass (yes, I alternated them when testing!). I'm ordering all new GEI relays from Dan (the Guzzi Relay Man) Prunukse (sp?) next pass.

 

The symptom was "no worky" -- either high or low beams.

 

Any comments? :blush:

Posted

Any comments? :blush:

Maybe this helps

If your relays are diode protected, the exact wiring is critical

 

relaylower4.gifrelayhighps2.gif

On a Bosch relay it is numbered 1-5, most other relays use the other corresponding numbers, as illustrated.

 

1 = 86 Yellow(Green)LowBeam or Red(Brown)HighBeam. Must be Positive if relay is diode protected. If not diode protected, 85 and 86 are interchangeable.

2 = 85 Black wire from factory harnass. Must be Negative if relay is diode protected

3 = 30 White wire from battery

4 = 87a should be vacant

5 = 87 Yellow LowBeam or Red HighBeam leading to bulb

 

I suspect 30 and 87 could be reversed, but I would not.

 

PS just went for first night ride since rewire, and it worked great! Especially High Beam :bier:

Posted

Any comments? :blush:

Any clicking noise at the relays when activated?

 

When I first hooked up, I got low beam but no high beam.

The relays clicked, so I started wiggling wires, and it turned out the 30 terminal in the high beam relay socket was not seated properly, so I reseated, wiggle tested, and all is well.

 

Ratchet, we have to prove to Dan Diego that are Bosch lights are better than his Lucas(or whatever he has on that Triumph) :grin: I have faith that you will figure it out :bier:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...