1000 mile service

[Guest Thundering Subash]

After meticulously combing various posts and links on this site, I was finally armed with the essential information needed to perform the 1000 mile service on my bike (having put on 1100 miles in the last few weeks since I took delivery). I might add that doing this maintenance given my limited mechanical ability was no small feat, and that had I not had access to information on this site I wouldn't have been able to get the job done. A couple of pointers:

 

1) To jack the bike up in order to spin the back wheel to arrive at TDC I used my regular old hydraulic jack under the exhaust along with the side stand. While caution should be exercised using this method, I found it to be quite stable and it didn't cause any damage to the exhaust. note: I had to improvise as I don't have a bike stand and I tried the "turning the alternator" approach but the oil cooler was in the way of the alternator cover and I don't have the right screw driver to access the 2 hard to access top screws on the cover.

2) For tappet clearances, the manual I received with my bike specified .10mm intake and .15 exhaust, which seems to be the most common recommendaton on this site, which is oft referred to as the "world standard". The right cylinder was close to being at this spec., but the left cylinder was quite a bit off. After the adjustment, it was a fair amount quieter (but not too quiet), and it ran pretty much the same as before.

3) For the gear box oil change I could not for the life of me find SAE 90 W oil as recommended in the manual, so I called the dealership and the head mechanic advised me to use good old fashion SAE 80/90 W oil, stating that's what he would use had I brought it in for the service. I ended up using Valvoline high performance SAE 80/90 W oil (filling and checking as I went until the oil reached the mid way point in the site glass with the bike straight up and level). Also, to unscrew the filler plug, I found that a hex T55 disc brake socket worked surprisingly well. Following the change, the bike shifts just as nicely as before.

4) Changing the differential oil was fairly straight forward. I used the Moto Guzzi brand of 80/90 W oil which already has the MOLY additive in it. I didn't bother to measure, just unscrewed the filler plug and drain plug and added oil until it started to run out. One piece of advice though, get yourself a nice funnel with a large capacity and narrow hole, as the filler hole for the differential is pretty small. While most differential oils come in a container with a narrow opening, apparently Moto Guzzi hasn't caught on to this trick.

5) The oil change wasn't bad. I drained the oil, took off the pan, cleaned the sump screen (although I could hardly say I cleaned it, as it was clean save for three small metal shavings I picked out of it), replaced the filter with another $15.00 Guzzi one, and put it all back together. While I bought a new pan gasket, I couldn't bring myself to use it as the one on my bike looked so nice and new. I filled it with the recommended amount of oil (3.7 quarts or 3.5 litres), Valvoline 4 stoke motorcycle oil, and it read full on the dipstick and I had no leaks.

6) While I had the spark plugs out, I checked the gap, which turned out to be a little wider than the spec. .7mm, adjusted them and put them back it. It ran the same as before, although I was happy to know they now are in line with the recommendation.

 

By and large everything came apart, adjusted, and went together without any problems. While it took me all day, I saved several hundred dollars, know it was done right, and will be able to do it in half the time when I do it next.

 

Lastly, not entirely related to this post, I'm completely happy with my bike and dealer save for a nagging battery problem I've been having that the dealer is trying to fix. I just wish they would give me another Guzzi to ride while mine is being looked at (the triumph they gave me this time, a 955i trophy, just doesn't have the character I've quickly become accustomed to in a Guzzi).

 

Thanks all. Keep the shiny side up.

 

-Chris

[andy york]

Glad you tried serviceing the Guzzi yourself.Lots of satisfaction in knowing the job was done and with the added bit of care an owner will provide but some dealers are lacking.

A note of caution. I believe I read that you drained the rearend housing and then refilled to the top. If so, I think your going to have a very messy mess on your rear tire and the back of your Guzzi. The rear end will blow out all the oil it doesn't like till it reaches the almost proper level. Don't ask me how I know .....-)))

[Guest Thundering Subash]

Thanks for the response Andy.

 

To clarify, when I refer to adding differential oil "I didn't bother to measure, just unscrewed the filler plug and drain plug and added oil until it started to run out", I should have specified that I waited for it to run out the level hole (the one in zee middle), NOT the filler hole.

[docc]

Servicing one's own ride is akin to 'servicing' one's otherwise companion. leaving this to others robs one of the greater satisfactions in life. By all means, set your wrench upon it!

 

 

After filling my rear drive to the overflowing point (from the level plug) I read ( in "Guzziology") that oil will cascade off the pinion giving a false reading. I found a proper graduated cylinder and measured the oil. The rear drive was at 80 % capacity. Probably adequate but having the full measure makes me feel a better partner to the Guzzi.

 

[dlaing]

Great post Subhash!

FWIW I like to put the bike in 6th gear and push it to get the engine into position for measuring the valve adjustment gap.

Perhaps this thread deserves to be moved to the How To section.

Here is some additional information:

The First Thousand mile service consists of

Replace Gearbox Oil 0.85 liters 80 W/90

 

Replace Rear Drive Oil 0.37 liters of a mix of 0.35 liters 80 W/90 and 0.02 liters molybdenum lubricant.

 

Replace Fork Oil 0.400 SAE 10 Fork oil. Hard to believe this is required after 1000 miles, but the factory is notorious for getting the oil level wrong.

 

Replace Engine Oil 3.5 liters Agip 4T Super Racing oil 20W50, many use 5W50 synthetics.

 

Replace Oil Filter Fram PH3614 will fit but construction is questioable.

Go to WallMart and get the SuperTech ST3614 for around $2 (vs $15 for the Guzzi filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to remove the decal on the filter before you install it. (Tip from Tracy Martin, off of the Wildguzzi.com site)

Also the Amsoil SMF125 is supposed to work.

 

Clean Mesh Oil Filter. probably not necessary but the manual says to do it.

 

Check Brake Pads

 

Check Brake Fluid

 

Check Spark Plugs NGK BPR 6ES gap 0.7mm

 

Check Valve Play. Every one has a different opinion about this.

Clearance specs (US): intake: 0.002" (0.05mm), exhaust: 0.004" (0.10mm)

Clearance specs (rest of world): intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm)

I like mine set to 0.006"(0.15mm) intake and 0.008"(0.20mm) exhaust.

RaceCo recommends 0.008"(0.20mm) intake and 0.010"(0.25mm) exhaust

The head should be torqued to 40 N.M, or 29.5 foot.pounds.

 

Adjust Fuel Injection. Balance Throttle Bodies and check CO level.

 

Check for loose bolts. (Very Important!!!)

[Guest scott]

Hey dlaing, I agree with you regarding valve settings. I too set mine to .006" (.15mm) intake and .008" (.20mm) exhaust. This is based on other post I've seen in the past and just my personal riding experience. The bike just seems to run better especially at the lower rpm's, and I notice no greater valve noise.

[dlaing]

Hey Jeff,

I like the setting as it is a compromise.

I have not tried the .20/.25mm setting.

I'd like to do a comparison of valve adjustment effects on a dynometer.

I have the impression from riding that the World Spec .10/.15 makes the dyno curve peakier and the .15/.20 gives better low end and a smoother power curve. But it is just a feeling. And I have been wrong about seat of the pants dyno results before....

And yah, I can't hear much if any difference in tappet noise. I guess the cam chain is too noisy....