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Posted

I'm looking for a replacement battery for my 2001 V11 Sport and I have decided to replace it with an Odyssey one. I'm getting conflicting information on which model number is the proper replacement for my bike. The chart isn't very clear to me. I don't know if I should be using a PC925L or a PC 545. The 925 is twice as heavy(and wide) and has twice the cold cranking amps as the 545.

 

here is the application chart:

 

REPLACEMENT

CC MODEL YEAR BATTERY

MOTO GUZZI

1100 1100 Calif, Special, Jackel, 94-05 PC 925L

Stone, EV

1100 Quota 1100 ES 99-02 PC 545

1100 Sport 1100I 97-99 PC 545

1100 VII EV 98-99 PC 925L

1100 VII Bassa 99-00 PC 925L

1000 Califonia III 89-93 PC 925L

1000 Convert, Daytona, LeMans, ALL PC 925L

Millie 1000NT, Quota

850 LeMans ALL PC 925L

850 T3, T4, T5 ALL PC 925L

750 Nevada, NTX, Strada ALL PC 680

750 V7 ALL PC 925L

750 V75 ALL PC 680

650 NTX ALL PC 680

650 V65 ALL PC 925L

650 V65 Florida ALL PC 680

500 V50 ALL PC 925L

 

I'm sure some of you have this replacement so let me know what you bought.

Thanks,

 

Zoltan

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Posted

I'm with DLAING on this one. It's a much better bike since I installed the Hawker.

 

His model # is -- of course -- correct.

Posted

Beware of the seat base contacting the battery.

 

A month after delivery, the dealer supplied Yuasa leaked. The battery was replaced, but I wondered why the battery installed by the dealer upon delivery had leaked so soon. I had to modify the battery bracket AND take a dremel tool to the seat rib to clear the replacement. I do not know which models have this issue.

 

On my '04 Cafe Sport both the PC 545 and Yuasa YTX15L or YTX15L-BS have thicknesses exceeding the available battery compartment. If you have the same interference issue but do not want to modify your bike, then seriously consider getting the metal jacket version.

 

For details, see the thread I started on the subject do horizontal batteries always leak.

 

If requested, I can supply pictures of the mod's I made. No problems with the YTX15L (factory prepared, available imported from Canada) since I made the mod's last April.

 

good luck,

John

Posted

Thanks Ryland3210 I'll make sure to have a close look when I go to install the battery and make the necessary mods.

Posted

This must be one of those problems that comes in groups - I just found that leak thread and ordered an Odyssy PC545 from Portable Power - $84 to my door. It should be here on Saturday, just in time for the winter weather to hit big time! Here's hoping I don't have to make any mods for it to fit. Joe

Posted

This must be one of those problems that comes in groups - I just found that leak thread and ordered an Odyssy PC545 from Portable Power - $84 to my door. It should be here on Saturday, just in time for the winter weather to hit big time! Here's hoping I don't have to make any mods for it to fit. Joe

 

I believe you will if your seat and battery bracket are the same as mine. It's not difficult.

Posted

This is very timely guys, as I've noticed my battery light flicker on occassion recently...current battery went almost three years, so I guess I can't complain. k

Posted

A three year old AGM is an infant. They shold last 5 years or better!

 

If you saw your battery light "flicker" at engine speed above 2000 RPM or so I would STRONGLY urge you to check ALL of the regulator/alternator connections near the steering head.

In fact I would urge everyone with a later model PM alternator equipped Guzzi to do so.

 

I cannot count the number of times I have seen them loosen, corrode, heat, melt insulation, short then destroy the alternator and/or regulator.

That may be what happened to mine.

After about three years the Spark 500 OEM battery gave up.

I replaced it with a Hawker Odyssey that lasted one year.

When it failed, I also determined that the regulator failed.

When I tried installing the new regulator, I determined that I had about a drop of one volt between the regulator and the battery.

This voltage drop probably killed my regulator, and my regulator probably killed the two batteries.

So, yah :stupid: Gary's recommendation to check your wires should not be ignored. It should probably be an annual or semi-annual scheduled maintainance.

It is pretty easy to clean the connections and measure the voltage drop between regulator and battery, so just do it :thumbsup:

Also, if your 30A fuse is starting to melt, it may be too late...but is certainly an indicator.

Posted

This is very timely guys, as I've noticed my battery light flicker on occassion recently...current battery went almost three years, so I guess I can't complain. k

 

I was going to post this up earlier, but had second thoughts thinking of the possibility of your battery demise might be due long periods stood whilst you're at sea. But Gary's and Dave's posts have dragged me from my complacency

 

My charge light saga involving burnt out connectors and a duff regulator. A bit chicken/egg in cause and effect, but might give you a heads up.

 

Good luck - electrickery :o

Posted

More evidence that wiring is commonly the problem:

Electrex, who makes my aftermarket voltage regulator, has in the instructions to create a new ground line, and a new line to the battery. But there is no reason you should not use the original ground and line to the battery other than from connections being bad.

In the experience of Electrex, presumably they must be getting people returning the regulators saying they did not work, when in fact the problem was the wiring.

They are no fools.

As more regulators and batteries fail, I think we will find more people finding corroded lines like Martin's and voltage drops like what I got between the regulator and the battery.

Posted

Here's another question to add to this battery thread: I just got a new Odyssey 545 MJ, but it's not clear whether it goes with the terminals forward or facing to the rear. The hot leads are long enough for both, but the ground leads are a stretch when the battery faces forward. However, the forward facing location means that the top of the battery is slightly elevated which seems preferable. Also, the terminals are much more accessible.

 

BTW, In the coursee of my work, I have been to the Odyssey battery plant in Warrensburg, Missouri several times. They are VERY picky about quality control. I think ther product is about the best out there.

 

Thanks for the input, MotoPierre

Posted

Welcome to the Forum Moto Pierre!

If your oem battery was a Spark500 the terminals should face to the rear.

Positive on the Port side and Negative on Starboard.

If your OEM battery was a Yuasa, I don't know :huh2:

Posted

Ok here is what is happening to my Odyssey. I bought a new one a few weeks ago. I charged it up before fitting it to the bike, after fitting all seemed fine, with the bike starting up in the garage.

 

However, a week later, I went to ride the Guzzi, and there was no juice left in the battery. Again, I charged the battery up and it started fine.

 

Left it for a week again, a hey presto- same problem- battery has discharged and only just enough juice left to turn the starter, then when I went to restart it a few minutes later, no juice left at all.

 

My immediate thoughts are either:

 

1/ The Hawker is faulty. A possibility, I guess, but I have used these batteries for years without any problems and would be surprised.

 

2/ Something else is causing the battery to discharge within a week.

 

I'm going to swap batteries with the other V11 to see if the same thing happens.

 

In the meantime, do any of you wise old lekky heads have any thoughts as what may be the problem?

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Edit- just checked the battery- it is showing 12.66 volts whilst fitted to the bike (inc immobiliser). Normal voltage for an Odyssey is 12.84V so I am not sure there is a problem with the battery.

 

Further edit- defintely not the battery- battery is fine but still cranking very slowly. Connections seem fine so I am wondering if starter motor is faulty. Have a spare one on the shelf so will swap 'em and see what happens.

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